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A TRIP TO EUROPE 



WITH 

A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 

INCLUDING 

GIBRALTAR ALGIERS NAPLES ROME PISA 

FLORENCE VENICE ZURICH THE RHINE 

COLOGNE THE HAGUE BRUSSELS 

PARIS VERSAILLES LONDON 

LIVERPOOL, AND OTHER 

EUROPEAN CITIES 



BY 



JENNIE KIGHT NESBITT 

Delegate from West Virginia to the World's Sunday 
School Convention held in Zurich. 



Herai,d Printing Housk, 

Piedmont, W. Va, 

19 14 



&%%&%&&%&&%%&%&%%&&&&%&&&)& 



A TRIP TO EUROPE 



WITH 

A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 

INCLUDING 

GIBRALTAR ALGIERS NAPLES ROME PISA 

FLORENCE VENICE ZURICH THE RHINE 

COLOGNE THE HAGUE BRUSSELS 

PARIS VERSAILLES LONDON 

LIVERPOOL, AND OTHER 

EUROPEAN CITIES 



BY 

JENNIE KIGHT NESBITT 

Delegate from West Virginia to the World's Sunday 
School Convention held in Zurich. 



Herald Printing House, 

Piedmont, W. Va. 

19 14 



4 



COPYRIGHT, 1<>14, BY 
JENNIE KIGHT NbCSBlTT 



AUG 27 1914 

©CLA3S030S 






A TRIP TO EUROPE 

WITH 

A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 



The trip across the Atlantic is such an everyday affair now 
that it scarcely arouses comment outside of the immediate neigh- 
borhood of the traveler. However, there is only one first time to 
every new experience and 1 can conceive of no more inspiring 
venture than the first trip across the water with a strange world 
awaiting on the other side — a world of which you have dreamed 
all your conscious life. 

There are two classes of travelers on every ship— those who 
have been over and those who have not — the seasoned sailor and 
the "first tripper." If the latter is ambitious to get out all there 
is in it he will not attempt to conceal his inexperience. The old 
timer is generous with advice and information, from which the 
novice may glean much that will come handy as he goes along. 

For instance, it is something to know that the higher you are 
in the superstructure the more perceptible the rolling of the vessel. 
Consequently a state-room and dining-saloon at a lower level are 
more conducive to a comfortable voyage. 

It is well to know that a steamer chair placed in a sheltered 
spot amid ship means comfort on deck. At sea one eats and sleeps 
under cover, but lives in the open. The wise prepare for outdoor 
life with wrap and rug, even for the southern tour. 

The voyage of which I write may be of interest to the exper- 
ienced traveler because of its unusual character." Not often do four 
hundred people for one purpose and for one destination assemble on 
one vessel for a journey of 12000 miles. The great World Sunday 
School Convention at Zurich, Switzerland, was the common interest 
that soon changed a crowd of strangers into one great, jovial, busy 
family. 



There were hours for preliminary work for the convention, to 
which earnest attention was given, but the games on deck were as 
absorbing in their turn as were the lectures in the saloon. The 
social life was as cheery as the home-coming of a divided family. 

Every detail of the tour had been perfected before we sailed. 
From Boston hack to Boston every day's needs had been provided 
for and prices fixed by the transportation committee of the Sunday 
School Association. At Naples the complete itinerary was put into 
the hands of an experienced tourist manager for execution. 

Eight vessels sailed from North America with chartered 
accommodations for delegates, each giving a different tour. I 
selected the White Star Liner "Canopic" because of the friends I 
would meet and because it gave the Mediterranean trip early in the 
season. Other vessels took the northern route going, returning 
through Italy. A shorter tour was via Cherbourg, France, to 
Zurich. One party sailed May first to the Holy Laud and Egypt, 
returning via Naples to the convention. Still another company of 
twenty-nine headed by Mr. Heinz, of Pittsburg, left San Francisco 
March first. They constituted a committee of inspection, visiting 
the mission schools of Hawaii, Philippines, Japan and China. They 
reached Zurich via the Siberian railroad. This committee was 
cordially received by the rulers of the countries visited and shown 
every courtesy. They held conferences and conventions, learned 
actual conditions and found new needs. They paid their own 
expenses. Nothing was drawn from any fund for this tour of 
inspection. Their report at the convention was wonderful. 

The Canopic party represented all denominations and all 
sections of North America. Three were from Mexico, a large 
number from Canada, the remainder from every section of the 
United States. No one asked or seemed to care what religious 
denomination claimed his neighbor. The honored guest was Bishop 
Vincent, of the Methodist church. This venerable man was cared 
for most tenderly by Dr. Bucher and son, of Cincinnati. 

A number of the American officers of the association were 
aboard. These leading men are wealthy laymen who spare neither 
themselves nor their money in working out their theory that the 
regeneration of the race should begin with the training oi'' the 
children. That it is easier to mold character in the making than 
to reform that which was spoiled in the making. 



The sea is a never ending vet ever varying source of delight. 
The green of the coast changes to the deep sea blue as we recede 
from land, and the white spray thrown up from the rush of the 
vessel falls hack in sparkling irridescent hues. 

To get the fall enjoyment of it all one should sit alone some- 
times in a quiet spot, and let the shining moonlit sea tell the story 
of ages upon ages of just such nights as have passed under the will 
of the same God whom we love and who cares for us, and of the 
marvelously perfect system that prevails in the ordering of every- 
thing from the life cycle of the microcosmic organism in the caves 
and on the rocks a mile beneath your feet, to the remote stellar 
bodies whose paths in space are fixed and absolute. Such a quiet 
hour brings a sense of security and peace that over-rides fear and 
brings a night of restful sleep. 

LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVE. 

The first development of social life on shipboard is along the 
line of least resistance, afterward by natural selection. The first 
thing in order is getting settled for living in the state room The 
comfort of the voyage is a common interest here, and one naturally 
establishes the first social relations with her room-mate. The 
assigning of places at table follows. At each plate is found a full 
passenger list which helps to associate names and faces. A blessing 
preceded every meal. Mutual introductions marked the first seat- 
ing. On deck our immediate neighbors were our next .acquaint- 
ances. The address pin which had been attached to our jackets in 
Boston was the only introduction necessary here. By this time 
each one had quite a social circle. Later as taste became apparent 
and personalities came to the surface, like almost unconsciously 
sought like. Many ladies were traveling like myself, unattached 
to any special company within their delegation, and as the voyage 
progressed we naturally fell into little congenial groups. 

The bugle calls for rising and meals reminded me of my brief 
experience in military camp life. The days were busy ones. At 
9:30 every morning a short devotional service was held, consisting 
of a hymn, a scripture reading and a prayer. Attendance of course 
was optional, but it was seldom neglected. The well-filled library 
attracted the more studious, the writing room was filled all day in 
preparing the home letters to be ready for the return ship in the 
harbor of Ponta Delgada. The walking matches, races, shuffle- 



board and quoits filled in the leisure morning hours, interrupted 
only by the light luncheons passed about by the deck steward. 
This never seemed to affect the appetite for the noon lunch, but 
Befved as an appetizer. 

The afternoon hours were filled in with the inevitable writing, 
reading, dozing on deck, fancy work, and of course incessant chatter 
everywhere; until the bugle announced the time to dress for dinner. 

Early in the voyage a delightful reception was given by the 
officers of the association and their wives. On this occasion every- 
body donned gala attire and had a good time. Dr. Bucher, who 
went out as music director for the convention, organized a male 
sextette. These with the ship orchestra, several fine pianists and 
two "queens of song" aboard, were most generous with their gifts 
for our entertainment. Every evening noted an event of general 
interest. The preparatory work for the convention was made so 
interesting that no one wanted to miss it. 

Dr. Adams, of Schenectady, N. Y., gave a lecture on Hark 
Twain. Having been a personal friend of the great humorist he 
gave us a new point of view of him. 

Dr. Bucher gave an evening on the History of Church Music. 
Two fine readers delighted us with their talent, and never seemed 
to tire of the frequent calls for them. The young people gave an 
evening of charades, pantomime, recitations and music. 

A stunt evening was announced and each delegation was 
requested to prepare one number. Canada gave their national 
song, "The Maple Leaf." It was sung as a solo by a handsome 
boy often years, draped in their flag, the delegation joining in the 
chorus. Rev. Chas. Phipps, of Oregon, gave a vivid picture of 
his work in the mining camps. A lady from North Dakota gave a 
song of her own composition. California presented a company of 
typical sight-seers from the east. It was very amusing. Mexico 
*\ni; in Spanish. The Southern states combined and gave us a 
"Social Evening in the Quarters." They dressed the part, black- 
ing up and all. It was evident there had been foraging among the 
crew and possibly in the steerage for costumes. An exaggeration 
of their natural tones and their familiarity with negro dialect made 
the imitation perfect. The turbaned mammies trotted the picka- 
ninnies to crooning lullabies, spanked the refractory without 




MESSMATES 



missing a note or measure, as they swayed their bodies in rhythmic 
harmony with the old "befo' dc wall" melodies. 

Between times they gossiped freely of Ihe days experiences 
and brought down the house with hits at leading people aboard. 
A hitherto digniHed college professor appeared as a wiry, raw-boned 
field hand whose ready wit enlivened the affair wonderfully. The 
banjo twanged an accompaniment to solo and weird shrill chorus. 

It was a resurrection of by-gone times that to some of us was 
pathetic as well as irresistibly funny. To others who only knew of 
such things remotely it was a perfect revelation. One little lady 
from Alabama received quite an ovation at the close, and finally 
broke away from the crowd by promising to ask "fo ten minits at 
Zurich? Yes, sah ! I sho' will." And sure enough she appeared 
on the programme there, her proper self however, with a most 
interesting report of her work as secretary of her state. 

New York gave the history of the city in pantomime. First 
came the Indians, feathers, tomahawks, papcoscs and all. These 
were crowded off the stage by the Dutch also in costume. Then 
the English hustled the Dutch aside and took possession. During 
this period colonial ladies simpered behind fans, and men in knee- 
breeches, tri-cornered hats and long waistcoats ruled the roast. 
The following periods showed up a motley crowd, — the Irish laborer 
with his family fresh from the sod, the Jew peddler, and the pawn- 
broker with his three gilt balls (oranges.) This character was 
presented in the person of a professor from Vassar, who looked the 
part to perfection. There were Italian laborers too with pick and 
shovel. The procession ended with a swarm of emigrants of every 
nationality, herded by a big Irish policeman and a fat Tammany 
politician. 

Every feature of this entertainment was so interesting that 
the "wee small hours" were almost on us before we knew it. To me 
the fact was clearly demonstrated that it takes brains to have a 
good time. Of course where mental activity is lacking substitutes 
must be found. 



LAND, HO! 

As we neared the Azores, U. S. stamps were sold us for mail- 
ing our letters in Boston Land was in sight early in the morning. 
To inexperienced eyes nothing was visible in the horizon but what 
seemed a long bank of low lying clouds. After a while this 
assumed shape as headlands which we skirted for a couple of hours 
before coming into the harbor of Ponta Delgada on (he Island St. 
Michael. Here our huge mail was transferred by boat to the 
Cedric which passed out as we sailed in. 

These islands belong to Portugal. It was the first glimpse of 
a foreign land to many of us, and so foreign was this first appear. 
ance that there was no mistaking it for anything we had ever seen 
before. The land rcse directly from the water to the top of a 
mountain, giving a clear view of the city and surrounding country. 
Along the water front the houses were tall, square, flat roofed and 
pierced by many small windows, evidently ware-houses and oilice 
buildings. Back'from this they rose tier upon tier, rarely more 
than two stories and all of a dazzling lightness. Cream, white, 
pale pink and blue were the predominating colors. Never a spot 
of dark color visible except in the foliage of trees and shrubbery. 
The town was surrounded by vineyards and pineapple farms. 
Wine and pineapples are almost the only exports. 

We anchored out in the harbor and a gang was thrown down 
the ship side to the water edge. The health officer and other 
officials came out in a light motor boat and came aboard. Then 
followed a committee of church people who were expecting us. 
Meanwhile the steerage was in commotion. A number of 
Portuguese were to be landed here and the water about the stern 
of the ship was filled with little dancing boats. Friends were 
shouting greetings with frantic gesticulations. 

We were rowed ashore in a fleet of small boats manned by 
native boatmen. The passage down that steep gang and the trans- 
fer to the bobbing, dancing boats below seemed somewhat perilous, 
but every care was taken by our officers and we made the trip in 
safetv. We landed at an ancient quay built of huge granite blocks. 
It looked as though it had been built for all time. Stone steps led 
down to the water edge and another hold-your-brcath transfer was 

3ary. 



The missionaries led the way direct to the mission building 
where the native congregation was waiting to receive us. They led 
us first through a roughly paved business street filled with a 
swarthy, unkempt, weather beaten crowd of curious natives— not 
the elite by any means Beyond, the streets grow narrow with 
side-walks about two feet wide. The houses present a solid wall to 
the street, broken only by an occasional doorway. In the better 
homes these doors lead into a court yard around which the home is 
built. In houses of two stories the windows are in the upper stories 
opening on hinges inward. Every window has its window box of 
gorgeous bloom. No hut too lowly for flowers. 

At the mission buildings we found the interior crowded and an 
assistant native pastor holding an overflowing meeting in the out- 
side inclosure. He was a fine looking, well dressed young man; 
was evidently well educated and sincere. At the close of his 
address, in which he gave the history of the mission, immense straw 
platters of flowers were passed through the cro.vd, a beautiful 
bouquet for each one there. 

Outside along the curb was a line of carriages waiting patron- 
age. Every horse looked like Don Quixote's steed, and every 
driver was Sancho Panza. The harness was of leather, rope, 
withes, or whatever was needed to piece out, and the vehicles, the 
floatsam and jetsam of ages. My friend and I concluded to do our 
sight-seeing afoot. 

By invitation we visited our consul there, and found him a 
courteous, genial gentleman, who with his handsome wife seemed 
fitted for more pleasant surroundings. The home itself is all that 
one could desire, but life in Fonta Delgada to an American must 
be simply existence. 

We visited the public gardens. Here the wonderful tropical 
growth and gorgeous bloom made up for the squalor on the way 
thither. There we met a family of natives, a mother and three 
daughters, who invited a few of us into their home and let us see 
how they lived. The floors were stone, the furniture old, rich and 
massive. The girls were as slender and graceful as lilies. They 
had clear olive complexions without a trace of color, and bright, 
sparkling black eyes. Their manners were perfect, and a finer 
hospitality I never met, though not a word they said could we 
understand. We hardly needed to, so expressive were their faces 



and gestures. Our stay was necessarily short, but we carried away 
a vivid picture of Portuguese at their best. 

There seems to be no transition period in the lives of their 
women. Toward evening we saw many well dressed people walking 
or driving "in the lower town. The young are pretty, slender and 
graceful, but there seems to be no well-rounded handsome middle- 
life for them. They emerge from girlhood into either stolid, 
swarthy, fat old age or into toothless, withered hags. The latter 
are found among the ill-fed poor I conclude. My partner that day 
was a tall, stout lady from Indiana, with a fair complexion and a 
very high color. She seemed to attract attention. Glancing up at 
a window we saw an elderly woman gazing at her, and patting her 
own cheek she said, "prittee, prittce." 

The ordinary means of locomotion in the town are high carts 
perched on two huge solid wooden wheels, drawn by a donkey alto- 
gether out of proportion to the load he is dragging. Donkeys 
carrying huge basket panniers or great bundles of fagots that covered 
them from ears to tail, ambled over the cobbles behind their pic- 
turesque masters. Down in the wider streets automobiles driven 
by dapper up-to-date young men, bounced over the stones in what 
seemed to us very uncomfortable fashion. These were apparently 
government oflicials out for an airing. 

My friend and I wandered down to the cathedral near the 
landing, and sat on the steps to wait for the reassembling of our 
party for the return to the ship. Beggars swarmed all about us — 
the most abject, forlorn creatures I ever saw. I looked about me 
at the weary-eyed women, the pompous looking guards, the smooth 
shaven priests, who only of that motley crowd looked clean, and 
then across to the stately ship lying at anchor in the harbor, and it 
looked like home to me. The return to it was made as we came, 
without mishap, but a tired, footsore, yet satisfied crowd climbed 
the gang that evening after this their first visit to a foreign land. 



1 



x 



X 




.- 



FARTHEST SOUTH. 

Two days out from the Azores we entered the harbor of 
Funchal, Madeira. These islands arc also a part of Portugal. 
When discovered by Portuguese navigators in 1420, they were 
uninhabited and were turned over to a religious order for coloniza- 
tion. The interests of the church have been so faithfully subserved 
that they have always been, of all Catholic countries, the most 
devoted to its faith. 

Columbus lived here when studying navigation and ocean 
currents. Observing the strange vegetation they carried in, and 
talking with the sailors, he became convinced that land lay to the 
west. While here he married a daughter of one of the first settlers 
who was then the first governor of the island. 

The city rises from the water front, but not so abruptly as at 
Ponta Delgada. Coining out from breakfast, we first sighted a 
large French liner anchored in the offing. Seeing our people 
hanging over the rail I stepped out to see what interested thecn. 
Our vessel was surrounded by email boats each manned by two 
native youths. One to manage the boat, the other stripped to his 
bathing trunk. These knew enough English to shout: "Dive fo' a 
quatah, lady," "Dive fo' a quatah, sah," with the usual noise and 
gesticulations to be found among Latin people. 

Occasionally a piece of money was thrown down, then into the 
water headforemost would go the nearest boy; disappearing entirely 
from view he would bob to the surface, swim to his boat, climb in 
and drop the coin into a box, his wet, brown body shining like 
polished wood. From the promenade deck of a big liner to the 
water is quite a distance, and the coin thrown must have gone far 
below the surface. They plunged in as recklessly as porpoises, and 
never failed to bring up the money. One brawny youth brought 
the pieces up between his toes. 

After the usual visit from port officials and of the church 
committee, we were taken ashore in large motor boats. We were 
landed at a large stone pier from which a wide avenue leads up to 
the principal street of the city. This avenue is bordered with 
immense shade trees which form an archway its entire length. On 
each side are handsome buildings — hotels, stores and other business 
houses. Here we had our first sight of out-door cafes in the clusters 
of small tables and chairs grouped under the trees. 



The Madeira are famous winter resorts, the climate being 
among the most equable known. As a result many natives in the 
business section speak English, and the foreign section looks very 
much like any other busy town. Automobiles are plentiful, but 
we saw few English carriages. 

There are several ways of getting about the town. One by 
means of the sedan chair swung from two poles carried by two men 
as seen in pictures, another is in a hammock carried in the same 
manner. The most popular way is to ride in a sled drawn by an 
ox. These sleds have very heavy wooden runners holding a 
canopied and upholstered body which seats four people. This 
strange vehicle is drawn by an ox led by a boy. The driver walks 
behind him armed with a sharp stick with which to hasten the 
movement of the animal. 

The opera house had been opened by the mayor of the city for 
the public reception of our party, and we were taken there direct 
from the landing. This building presents a fine exterior, and the 
interior is simply beautiful. Here the native church people and 
the Sunday schools were assembled to meet us. The churches and 
city government were each represented in the addresses of welcome 
and our representatives were most happy in their responses. They 
were given in English then translated for the benefit of the native 
audience. The children sang delightfully. Our leaders had them 
brought to the stage for their exercises, and those bright young 
people received an ovation from that company of people from a 
distant land, that must have raised their social status fifty per cent. 
It certainly should have impressed upon their minds that the faith 
they profess is an added dignity rather than something to be 
ashamed of. 

Old travelers had been assuring us that the toboggan trip 
down the mountain was the one unique attraction of Funchal. 
Consequently at the close of the exercises, West Virginia headed 
for the starting place for the trip. Passing up a w T ide central 
street 1 noticed two high stone walls extending through the center. 
Looking over the side I saw down into a wide deep gorge apparently 
the bed of a mountain stream. Here and there stone steps led 
down to the bottom, and groups of women were washing clothes' at 
the pools of water, spreading them on the rocks to dry. I imagined 
the great, rushing torrent filling that gorge from wall to wall on 



its way to the sea when the tropical rains fall, and thought of the 
wisdom of a municipality which, by these solid walls, once for all 
warded oft' all danger of flood. Just then a voice behind me spoke 
English. I turned and asked the name of the stream. "That, 
madam, is the main sewer of the town." I passed on glad to know 
I had no laundry for Funchal. 

While waiting at the station for tickets for the mountain ride 
I had time to make a mental survey of the situation. We were to 
take a cable car to the top of the mountain and there be transferred 
to a sled to coast down to the city. The only brake to this sled 
was a stout stick in the hands of the guide. I don't care to coast 
on snow at home, and bumping over bare earth and stones failed to 
appeal to me. Neither do I "Shoot the chute" in my own country. 
I certainly was not tempted to peril life or limb in a foreign land 
for the sake of a new sensation. So I climbed into a queer vehicle 
with some friends and explored the city behind three horses har- 
nessed abreast. Afterward we took a ride in an ox cart and 1 felt 
I had diversion enough for one day. 

The wonderful hand embroideries found many purchasers 
among our ladies. Post card sellers, flower girls and boys were 
everywhere. The homes of the people present blank walls to the 
street, but are overhung with gorgeous bloom and tropical foliage. 
Glimpses of beautiful court yards through gateways made impres- 
sions of luxurious life within. 

We wandered down to the pier, taking observations as we 
passed. The markets were filled with fruit and vegetables, many 
of them strange to us, but so exposed to dust and flies that we 
wondered where the visitor from sanitary regions obtained his food. 

The coral sellers were most persistent. "Yes, lady, proper 
coral, no imitation." At last my friend offered a quarter for a 
string more than a yard long which was promptly accepted. The 
English dress is seen everywhere. The most distinctive garment I 
saw was the "capote." It is a large cape which covers the entire 
figure. A huge hood resembling a monk's cowl is attached, cover- 
ing the head and shading the face. I supposed it was the costume 
of a religious order, but was told that it is in general use for street 
wear when ladies find it inconvenient to remove the house dress 
before going out. It is capable, like charity, of "covering a multi- 
tude of sins." 



UpOD our return to the ship we passed through the crowd of 
divers still shouting for patronage. The deck chairs were covered 
with fancy work awaiting purchasers. The entrance to the cabins 
had been locked and stewards were vigilant guards, but a few of 
those wet, shining boys scrambled up the rigging like monkeys 
and insisted on diving from the deck for a quarter. One actually 
mule the plunge from the saloon deck and brought up the money. 

The steamer whistle blew for departure, but a warning blast 
from the French ship disclosed the fact that a belated boat-load was 
bring left behind. The captain was visibly annoyed at the delay. 
He declared it to be the first time he had failed to sail on schedule 
time. 

GIBRALTAR. 

After leaving Madeira we caught the end of a storm that had 
swept the Bay of Biscay. A rough sea and strong head-wind 
impeded our progress, and in consequence, we reached Gibraltar 
several hours late. The sailors attributed this misfortune to the 
•'singing of hymns after night. It always brings bad luck, and 
we'll be glad to get rid of these Sunday school people." Of course 
the captain was not superstitious, but was inclined to the opinion 
that adverse winds might be expected since the delay in leaving 
Madeira. 

At Gibraltar we were taken ashore in a large tender, but 
arrived too late for the English church service there. Just across 
the wharf a massive gate leads to the inside of the fortification. 
We entered a large court surrounded by stone barracks with the 
soldier very much in evidence; passing through, we came into the 
English town, which, in consequence of the importance of the 
harbor and of the presence of the garrison, has grown up at the 
foot of the rock. 

Everything has the appearance of solidity and permanence. 
The streets were clean and well kept, and a Sabbath quiet prevailed. 
Stores, postotiice and all other public buildings being closed, there 
was no sign of business activity anywhere — not even a Greek ice 
cream parlor open for Sunday refreshment. And yet the well- 
dressed people on the streets did not seem to suffer in consequence. 
If there had been time for a visit to the Spanish section, we would 
doubtless have seen a marked difference in Sabbath observance. 



The mother country "remembers the Sabbath day to keep it holy" 
abroad as well as at homo. 

The day was warm, but by walking on the shady side of the 
streets we were comfortable. Outside the gate, the wharf was alive 
with boys selling New York papers; men with baskets of fruit most 
temptingly arranged, were just as persistent as in the islands. The 
strawberries were larger than our varieties. There were dates, 
apricots, figs and other fruits to us unknown. Many of them came 
from the near-by African coast. 

As we sailed away we rounded the point which gives the view 
of the rock made so familiar in pictures. Of course there were the 
inevitable jokes about the Equitable advertisement. In its place I 
noticed an immense smooth surface, like a mammoth tablet pre- 
pared for advertising space. I was told that it is an artificial slope 
of concrete, built to carry the rainfall to a great reservoir excavat- 
ed at the base. From there it is pumped to the summit, and is the 
only source of water supply for the heights. As no vessel could 
land at the precipitous face of the rock, the supply could not be cut 
off in time of siege. 

We skirted the coast of Spain until we passed the city "of 
Algeciras where, a few years ago, the powers in conference, settled 
the troubles between Italy and Turkey over possession of Tripoli. 

The evening service in the saloon, on this our second Sunday 
afloat, was conducted by the Rev. Hamilton YVigle, of Nova Scotia. 
The sermon was fine, and his tender, brotherly appeal to the young 
to strive for the best things in life, was very impressive. In speak- 
ing of the observance of the Sabbath, he referred with pardonable 
English pride, to the respect for the day manifested in Gibraltar. 

• During the entire sermon I noticed, at an open port, the face 
of our young dining-saloon steward. On the way to my room after- 
ward I met him, and asked how he liked the service. "Did you 
see me ? I didn't lose a word of that sermon. I tell you it touched 
a tender spot. It took me back to England and my mother whom 
I saw last two years and a half ago, and it's the first sermon I have 
heard since then." 

"Don't you have Sunday service at sea?" I asked. "Yes" he 
replied, "the purser reads the English service as required by law, 
but not over fifty people go to hear it. I've been on the Canopic 
five years, and this is the first voyage in that .time that has had 



sermons. I tell you," he went on to say, "this trip is peculiar. 
These people are unlike the usual crowd. There's no grumbling 
and kicking among them. Everybody seems pleased with what is 
done for their comfort, and they are all so friendly and kind. These 
are Christian people, all right I" 

I bad noticed the interest of the officers in the "doings" of the 
company, especially in the evenings, and it was gratifying to know 
that the impressions made were favorable, and abiding to the end 
of the cruise. 

ALGIERS. 

Our next landing was at the city of Algiers, Africa. The 
French are in possession here. France has a record for benevolent 
colonization. Unlike some of her neighbors, she never enriches the 
home government at the expense of her colonies. She spends the 
revenue from each in its own development. Not as a philanthropy 
simply, but to make it a more valuable possession. 

It was qiytc late in the afternoon when our ship entered the 
harbor, and a little steam tug dragged the pontoon bridge to its side 
and connected with the wharf. We grudged the time thus con- 
sumed, but it made an easy landing for us.' My first view of the 
Mohammedan, was the sight of a group of Arabs in white turbans 
and voluminous robes, standing on the end of the breakwater away 
out to sea motionless as statuary, gazing at the incoming vessel. 
The sight was impressive — Christianity invading Islam, and Islam 
powerless to prevent Then came to my mind as I gazed, the cry 
of Ahab to Elijah, "Hast thou found me, O mine enemy !" For if 
there is a superlative hatred, it is that of the Mohammedan for the 
"Christian dog." Before leaving the ship we had been told to wear 
no exposed jewelry, and above all things, to keep together. There 
must be no straggling. 

Long lines of carriages awaited us at the wharf, and after seeing 
the line buildings and well made streets of the French portion of 
the city we were driven through the Arab section. We sa.v here 
the dusty mosques, the flowing robes of these children of the desert, 
who scarcely turned their sullen faces toward us as we passed, the 
veiled women, and the queer shops with their more peculiar wares. 

Daylight was about gone when we started afoot to visit the 
school of the mission. The streets leading down to it were steep, 
roughly paved, crooked, and so narrow that three persons abreast 



touched the walls on either side. The homes open into the street 
without doors, and the onlj' light we had part of the way was from 
these interiors. We brushed by men lounging about these openings, 
and s.iw the women busy inside preparing food over their brazier 
fires. 

As we neared the school building the way was only lighted by 
candles placed by the missionaries here and there against the wall. 
Away above us I could see a narrow strip of blue sky studded with 
stars. I was not afraid for we were well cared for, but the entrance 
to the school brought a sense of relief. It was a weird experience, 
and no event of the tour stands out in my memory so vividly. 

The pupils of the missions are in part the children of converted 
Arabs. Some are waifs cared for by the mission. The enterprise 
is financed by private contributions. Entering as we did at night, 
from streets which were little more than crooked slits between walls, 
we could form no idea of the outside appearance of the building. 
We were ushered into a central room, from which opened the differ- 
ent apartments used by the school. The young people were waiting 
to receive us. We saw them at their various occupations — basket 
weaving, lace making, spinning, drawing — and inspected their 
school work, which was very creditable. Every one remarked the 
difference between these bright-eyed, alert young people inside, and 
the listless, apathetic children we had seen outside. They took 
great pride in their accomplishments. A whole roomful of little ones 
sang for us as sweetly as our ovvn children do. The stone walls 
with arched openings instead of doors, the dusky faces about us only 
lighted by flickering tapers, made up a weird scene which might 
have been taken from the Arabian Nights. The grotto like ap- 
pearance of the place gave one the feeling of being under ground. 

We were hurried from this place down the steep, rough streets 
to the central mission building. This had been originally the home 
of a Moorish nabob, and was built in true Oriental style. The 
court had been enclosed and turned into an assembly room. Here 
we met the mission people and heard the history of the w r ork. 
These faithful men and women had surely come through great 
tribulation. First and always from the natives; for a time from 
the French officials, who made their work almost impossible, until 
they found their own efforts to make the Mohammedan a loyal 
citizen, utterly futile. After that the missionaries were allowed to 



do their utmost. How these teachers maintained existence, to say 
nothing of preserving health in such surroundings, can only be 
explained as the result of faith in God. 

Our moneyed people not only cased the burden not a little 
thai night, hut the good ship carried away a few of those worn 
women for rest, change and a visit to the great convention. 
Another scurrying down stony steps brought us to a wide open 
street in the French quarter, where our carriages were waiting to 
take us hack to the "wharf. Our driver was the only n,egro I saw 
thai night. He was grim, silent and as black as night. On the 
pontoon, bcturbancd Arabs were displaying handsome Oriental 
rugs and carpets. I imagine they found few purchasers, though 
the articles were well worth inspection. 

SUNNY ITALY. 

The last day of the voyage was ideal. The Mediterranean was 
perfectly calm; the deep blue waters were as smooth as a landlocked 
harbor. Naples, the end of the cruise, was just beyond. Long 
before the time for landing our belongings had been packed and 
marked for inspection at the custom house, and all hands were on 
deck, eager for the first view of the famous bay. The small islands, 
which form the outline from the entrance to the crescent shaped 
harbor, rear their fortified headlands like grim, vigilant sentinels, 
with pretty villas nestling in bowers of green at their feet. As we 
steamed up the bay, the city rose from the sea on three sides like 
the tiers of a vast amphitheatre; high over all, Vesuvius raised its 
lofty unconquered head from which a column of smoke rose straight 
toward the sky. 

Beautiful buildings, gardens of tropical beauty, monuments 
and tombs, passed like a vast panorama as we slowly glided by. 
Among the most note-worthy objects is the tomb of Virgil. It is 
easily located by its mosque-like dome. 

The experiences at the dock were not devoid of anxiety. A 
long chute was raised to the main deck, and down its narrow length 
went flying in swift succession, all the lighter baggage. A hard 
push at the top sent suit-case, hand-bag, shawl-strap, to the man at 
the hot loin; he tossed it. to the truck men, who trundled the totter- 
ing heap toward the custom house. No serious damage resulted, 



but I was glad my wardrobe was packed in leather, instead of the 
much recommended rattan. 

After what seemed a long delay, we made our way down the long 
gang-way, and hurried to identify our property. So slowly did it 
arrive, and such a quantity was to be handled, that the process of 
inspection seemed interminable. One of the Association secretaries 
avised me to "find a comfortable place to rest and let the man who 
was paid for it do the worrying." So I fell into line for the car- 
riages outside, passing on the way my baggage all chalked up for 
delivery at the hotel. As I passed an officer my hand-bag got a 
chalking and my inspection was over without a question or the 
turning of a key. Outside, while waiting for the "line-up," the 
carriage steps were full of post card peddlers, every window showed 
a handfull of card. "Only five centimes apiece !"— one cent— or 
"only twenty-five centimes a set !" "One lira for all this, lady !" 
Finally to get rid of the most persistent, a gentleman bought a 
bunch. This made a target of him for the whole crew. The'effect 
was very laughable, and by the time the carriages moved almost 
every one in our bus had bought pictures. 

We were driven through handsome streets, lined with fine busi- 
ness houses and other public buildings. Our hotel was in a central 
part of the city. Here the suave Italian was much in evidence 
and we were shown through marble halls, up marble stairways to 
our equally elegant rooms. Here the handsome rugs on the pol- 
ished marble, were havens of safety to our unaccustomed feet. We 
were luxuriously housed, the meals and service were fine, and 
enough English was spoken for necessary use. 

In the evening a few of us walked out to the shopping centre. 
It proved to be an immense arcade, covered by a great glass dome. 
Stores of all kinds opened into it, and the whole place was brilliantly 
lighted with electricity. Well dressed people were passing in and 
out the shops, taking ices in the cafes, listening to the concert in 
the open all moving quietly and with the utmost decorum. It was 
our first opportunity to contrast the quiet dignity of gentility in the 
old civilization, with the noise and rush of the new. The difference 
became more and more marked as we journeyed through Europe. 



POMPEII. 

The next morning we went by train to Pompeii, seven miles 
distant Oar first Bight of rural Italy, was of the market gardens 
which always border large towns. These are remarkable for the 
intense cultivation; not a foot of arable ground is wasted. Instead 
of fences, boundaries are defined by some marketable growth. 
Whore draining is necessary the ditches are the lines. All our 
vegetables seemed to be grown, and others that were strange to us. 
The country is level— a plain bordering the sea. Vesuvius rises 
directlv from the plain, a solitary, elongated mountain that rises 
near the centre into a lofty cone. As we approached, the road 
passed through a bed of lava. It's great width and depth gave an 
idea of the terrors of an eruption, but still little villages cling to 
the lower slopes of the monster as if there were no smoldering fires 
beneath them, nor threatening steam and smoke above. 

We left the train at a combination of station, curio shop and 
restaurant near the entrance to Pompeii. 

Through the narrow stone gateway we entered upon an equally 
narrow street, hardly wide enough to admit the passing of carts. 
It was roughly paved with huge stones in which are seen the deep 
ruts worn by the chariot wheels of long ago— proof at the threshold 
of the great age of the city at the time of its destruction A. D. 03. 
The side-walks are never more than two feet wide; they are raised 
above the street, and the irregular heights and broken condition 
make walking difficult. No modern vehicle could carry passengers 
comfortably through the city. The houses open directly on the 
streets. They are of stone, brick and concrete, now open to the sky, 
of course, with nothing standing but the walls. But as all the 
walls were of the same material, the division into rooms remains, 
and the plans are easily discovered. Stone fixtures in many places 
indicate the nature of the occupation. Stone trays and ovens mark 
the bakery, stone mortars and pestles an apothecary shop; stone fire 
places and implements for cooking mark the kitchen; stone vats the 
wine shops. When another story was added the superstructure was 
of wood. In the rain of stone and ashes which preceded the flow of 
lava, this part was crushed into the more substantial rooms below, 
in a measure protecting the lower interiors from the flood which 
covered all. This doubtless made possible the recovery of the 
works of art found in a fair state of preservation, and prevented the 



entire obliteration of the frescoes, and the mosaic floors of the 
palaces, in many places the bright colors in the mural decorations 
are preserved, and from them may be found a fair idea of the 
customs and social life of the period. 

The Italian government conducts the excavation, and great 
care is taken to preserve everything of interest that remains. The 
best preserved buildings are roofed over, the fragments of mosaic 
floors are railed off. Corinthian columns are set in their places, 
courts are grass sown, and shrubbery re planted. Our party was 
photographed in the loggia of such a restored palace. All detached 
articles of value are placed in the museum in Naples. 

To me the most surprising discovery is that of the method of 
supplying the city with water. It was brought from distant reser- 
voirs through leaden pipes into their homes, supplying the house- 
hold needs just as is done to-day. These pipes are still visible in 
many places. They supplied the baths, both public and private, 
and the many fountains, the points of attachment being still visible 
in the stone basins and bath tubs. Verily there is "nothing new 
under the sun." 

The great rectangle called the forum, being open to the sky, 
must have received the full force of the storm of mud and ashes. 
Lines of broken columns and the crushed pedestals of statuary mark 
its outlines. The pavement is still intact in places. Here the 
enterprising photographer rounded us up for another picture. 

Pompeii was a great city, the home of wealth and culture; an 
historic fact which the excavation confirms. It was originally a 
seaport, but the shore lines have receded so far, that only recently 
has the site of the ancient harbor been discovered. Only a small 
portion of the ruins have been exhumed, but so great an area has 
been opened, that days would be required to make the complete tour. 



RETURNING TO NAPLES. 

Returning to Naples carriages met us at the station to carry 
tis over the city. The first to greet us in Italy, and the last to 
leave us on the continent, was the post-card peddler. Next in order 
came the seller of mosaics. Naples is noted for its hand-made 
mosaics and its cameoes. The latter however are not sold on the 
streets. These peddlers meet you at the hotel door, follow you to 
your carriage, and until the driver cracks his whip they recommend 
their wares in voluble Italian and murdered English. At the end 
of the drive, the same swarm _ apparently — bobs up from some- 
where, with the same insistence. 

To lend variety, bright-faced, black-eyed boys dodged in and 
out, with the southern shrug, and out-stretched hands for "monie, 
lady, monie!" At Madeira they told us the worst beggars had been 
locked up for the day of our visit. I was glad the same vigilance 
had not been exercised in Naples, for this experience with peddlers 
and the boys was quite interesting, being part of the show. If a 
courteous municipality had locked up the fleas, their thoughtfulness 
would have been appreciated. I seemed to be immune, or perhaps 
Providence took special care of me, but others of our party carried 
away mural decorations not listed in the art catalogues. 

We were taken through the sections of the city where the 
working people live. Following the. wider ways where only two 
vehicles could pass between curbs, we saw their places of business. 
All were open to the street. We saw the butcher preparing his 
meats for sale, the baker at work in the dough, the basket maker 
weaving his rattan, the seamstress rattling the sewing machine. 
Looking up the cross streets where nothing but a donkey cart could 
pass we saw women sitting out sewing, knitting lace, preparing 
vegetables for the meal, washing clothes, while over head line upon 
line of clothes flapped in the wind, stretched from window to window 
across the chasm between the tall houses. The streets are well 
named "via," for they are simply a "way." Smiling faces greeted 
us every where, some times a cheery word came which of course was 
lost on us. Little children welcomed us with the peculiar beckon- 
ing hand, instead of a wave as with us. Coming into higher ground 
we saw the homes of the prosperous. These were well built and in 
pretty grounds. We spent an exhaustive afternoon in the famous 
museum. Here we saw the fossilized bodies recovered from 



Pompeii, and the wonderful display of art treasures from the buried 
city. Afterwards we visited the ancient fortifications on the heights 

from which we viewed the city and the bay. 

We had all heard of the Italian sky, but viewing it in cloud 
and in sunshine, morning, noon and night, we failed to see anything 
finer than our own American expanse of cloudland and ethereal 
blue. English people, accustomed to their murky uplook, are 
responsible for the rhapsodies over the Italian heavens. 

RURAL ITALY. 

From Naples to Rome our route lay through the plain border- 
ing the Mediterranean. The nearby market gardens were inter- 
spersed with small groves of a species of bamboo, used in the 
manufacture of fishing rods, chair-bottoms and basketry. 

The homes of the peasantry reminded me of the pictures of 
Nazareth. They are low stone structures, built of cobble set in 
cement. Some are covered with stucco, and occasionally we saw 
one of brick with stucco finish. The steep thatched roofs extend in 
long ragged eaves. Windows are set high, are few in number, and 
are often mere slits in the walls. If glass is used they swing inward 
on hinges. The better sort have two stories. The upper one is 
reached by a stone stairway built against an outside wall. These 
have tiled roofs, and are mostly seen in the villages about the rail- 
road stations. 

The railroad north of Naples runs near the sea on the left, with 
a wide plain stretching away on the right of the foothills of the 
Appenines. The wonderful fertility of this valley is remarkable 
when we consider the ages in which it has been under cultivation. 
This soil has never been robbed. It has been nourished and kept 
at its best. The signs of an abundant harvest were to be seen 
throughout Italy. There are no worn out farms there, as in our 
newer country, and every available spot is under cultivation — clean 
intensive cultivation, such as is only seen in our country where the 
foreign agriculturist uses old world methods. 

The farms of Italy are peculiar. They are no larger than two 
of our hill side town lots ; being almost rectangular in shape, and 
in the coloring of various crops, they give the country a striped 
appearance. 



Not a fence is visible. The separating lines are narrow, deep 
ditches where drainage is necessary. Generally the farm is out- 
lined bv mulberry trees set at regular intervals. These trees are 
kept cut to a low growth, and all trunks are trimmed to the top, 
where only a dense clump of foliage remains which casts a very 
small shade. Grape vines are festooned from tree to tree with 
mathematical precision. In the openings beneath a row of vegeta- 
bles grows usually beans, or some variety that requires protection 
from the sun. This presents a very pleasing appearance as one 
passes through the country, though an artistic effect is not the 
purpose of it all. This fence repairs itself with little help, fixes a 
boundary, and provides three marketable crops— mulberry leaves 
tor the silkworms, grapes and the vegetable. 

Men and women work side by side in the fields, using the most 
primitive implements. No horses are used, just oxen and donkeys. 
The domestic life of the farm is confined to a limited space. The 
house, barn, stable and well, are all huddled together, and enclosed 
bv a stone wall. Outside is a garden. Sanitation is evidently not 
considered, but this is an outdoor people, and space is valuable. 

The noon hour found our train — a special — at a large station 
where lunch was served. It came to each one in a pretty rustic 
basket which contained bread and unsalted butter, a ham sandwich, 
a slice of roast beef, chicken, two eggs, cheese, cake, an orange, 
peaches— every article wrapped daintily in parafiine paper — a paper 
napkin, knife, paper cup and a bottle of wine. The food was ex- 
cellent, but wine to American Sunday school people was a joke, and 
caused much merriment without the drawing of a cork. I suspect 
the porters had a jollification, as it was all left in the train, When 
lunch was served en route afterward, a bottle of spring water came 
instead of wine. 

During the morning a waterspout at sea and an aeroplane high 
over the plain att raced attention. There are groves of olive trees, 
and the farm yards are usually shaded by other fruit trees. Away 
in the distance toward the mountains umbrella pines are seen. 
These stand in clumps ; their tall straight trunks are as devoid of 
foliage as a mast, except for the spreading top which gives the tree 
its name. 



ROME. 

Gazing out upon the landscape, fearing to lose a single feature 
of this view of the old world, a broken line of lofty arches come in 
sight, " O, the old Roman aquaduct !" I cried. J knew then we 
were passing through the Campagna and nearing the "Eternal 
City." Then I saw a line of broken pedestals, with here and there 
a tower in ruins, or the remains of a monument or a tomb ; this 1 
knew to be the Appian Way, over which Paul traveled on his 
journey to Rome. I was unable to locate the Three Taverns where 
his friends from the city met him, though we skirted the famous 
high way for a long distance. It is still a well kept thoroughfare. 

In Rome we passed through a fine modern station to the wait- 
ing carriages and were driven through a handsome modern city to 
our hotel. The most impressive sight on our way — to me at least, 
who could not readily connect anything with Rome but antiquity — 
was the beautiful subway through which we were driven. It passed 
under the Quirinal, the royal palace and grounds. This was once 
the home of the Popes, but is now occupied by the royal family ; 
the Pope having retired to the Vatican. This subway is a wide 
arch enclosing wide sidewalks, with street car tracks and carriage 
way between. Its walls are covered with a glistening, creamy tile 
molded in beautiful patterns. The electric lights are so arranged 
as to give the effect of subdued daylight. 

Our hotel here was a repetition of marble walls, columns, stair- 
ways and floors. The furnishing was complete, the cooking and 
service left nothing to be desired. The shopping district being near, 
our ladies scattered to find Roman pearls, silks, and antiquities. In 
one store I met a handsome woman from Ala'bama, who greeted us 
in our own tongue. We were known on sight everywhere as 
American ; never once being taken for English even. How we were 
distinguished we never discovered. Even in London where to me, 
everybody had the same appearance, they knew us before a word 
was spoken. This lady from Alabama gave us some useful informa- 
tion, and of course was quite eager for American patronage. We 
found her prices not reduced to us in the least. 

Next morning our guide, a polished Italian scholar, was on 
hand early to take charge of his section of sight-seers. We were 
taken first to the Pantheon, the only building of ancient Rome not 



now m nun: 



It was built by Agrippa '21 B. C, and was first a 
beathen temple, afterward consecrated to hero worship ; at one time 
a fortification, and then changed to a Christian church ; to this fact 
it doubtless owes its preservation. It is a targe circular building, 

with walls of hewn stone surmounted by a huge dome, which is two 
feel wider than thai of St. Peters. There are no windows, the light 
coming from the dome. Now it seems reserved for the burial place 
of noted people. Raphael lies here, his resting place is marked by 
a magnificenl tomb. Emmanuel and Humbert both lie here. Since 
the establishment of the United Kingdom, this building, instead of 
the church, seems destined to be the burial place of royalty. 

The drives through the city were as interesting as the buildings 
we visited. Everywhere are beautiful fountains, monuments, 
memorial arches, statuary, both ancient and modern. A life time 
could be spent in studying its history and unraveling its traditions. 
There are three hundred and sixty churches, every one commemor- 
ating a saint, or some important event in the history of the church. 
Every one is built for all time, and is rich in adornment. The 
ancient buildings of state are owned and controlled by the present 
government, though all art treasures were removed, years ago, to 
the Vatican galleries. 

St Peters is easily recognized from its pictures. The entrance 
to the front is through the gate of an immense colonnade which 
encloses a wide plaza, but on three sides the main building is so 
closely surrounded with other buildings, that it is hard to form an 
adequate idea of its immensity. The inside area is so broken by 
immense columns, high altars, elaborate memorials, screens, statuary 
and chapels, that all sense of unity is lost, and one has the feeling 
of passing from one highly decorated edifice to another; from chapel 
to throne room; from monuments to the dead and place of entomb- 
ment, to the treasure house of the gorgeous regalia of the living. 

Our guide told us frankly that the glory of St. Peters lies in 
its architecture and wealth of adornment; but that the highest 
expression of art was not found in its pictures or statuary. Not 
one of the pictures which adorn its walls is an original. Every 
one is a copy— without exception, a wonderful copy— in mosaic. 
Xo paint has ever touched St. Peters. Everything there is made 
as nearly indestructible as possible. 

The statuary has been placed, in different periods, by Ecclesi- 



astic selection and authority, and as the artistic souse is as varied 
in church officialdom as elsewhere, a variaty of tastes, and many 
degrees of excellence are represented. 

The Vatican is the great treasure house of art in Rome. Here 
we saw nothing but originals, gathered from the ruins of ancient 
Greece, from excavated Roman villas, and from conquered provinces 
when the Roman government ruled the known world. The master- 
pieces of the medieval age are found here. There are hundreds of 
rooms in the Vatican. Its great galleries and library oocupy a 
large number of them, and the Pope's large following, including the 
famous Swiss guards are also housed there. That portion adjoining 
his own private apartments was closed at the time of our visit, to 
insure quiet, because of his failing health. We had a fine view of 
the garden from one of the galleries. 

The Sistine Chapel with its wonderful paintings by Raphael 
was open for visitors. It belongs to the Vatican, but is connected 
directly with St. Peters. 

The church of St. John Lateran is remarkable for its age, and 
for the colossal statues of the Apostles. Here is preserved the table 
on which the Last Supper was served, and under the altar the 
heads of Peter and Paul are placed. We did not see these relics, 
nor the remains of the cradle of Christ in St. Mary Maggiore near 
by; we were told they were there by the custodians. The Sacred 
Stairway is quite near St. Johns. It is long and wide. The 
original steps have a protecting cover. At its base are two groups 
in marble, one on either side, representing the betrayal of Christ in 
the kiss of Judas, and Christ before Pilate. Half way up the stair- 
way was a group of women in black, climbing step by step, on their 
knees, and pausing on each step for a prayer. Coming out, beggars, 
sore-eyed, ragged, old and haggard, mumbled with out stretched 
hands, while behind us was that scene of painful, pathetic devotion. 



ANCIENT ROME. 

The official guides of Rome are scholarly gentlemen, licensed 
by the government after rigid examination. Everything of public 
interest, outside of the churches, belongs to the government. 
Excavations are constantly revealing interesting objects of antiquity 
which are carefully preserved in the National Museum. From this 
vast collection the whole history of Italy might be restored if all docu- 
mental evidence were destroyed. There is no attempt to rebuild 
the ruins, but sufficient restoration is made to preserve the identity 
and to prevent further destruction. Enough of the Coliseum 
remains to make plain its size, shape and purpose. The walls are 
of massive hewn stone and were held firmly by great iron bolts. 
After the power of Rome was broken and this great building had 
fallen into disuse it became a quarry for building material, other- 
wise it is probable the whole structure would still remain. The 
walls are blacke*ned with age, except where a restoration supports a 
broken arch or defines an entrance. When iron became scarce in 
the city the bolts were gouged out of the walls; this adds materially 
to the appearance of decay. 

The great arena is grass grown and strewn with broken stone. 
We saw tier upon tier for the spectators, the seats for the patrician 
around the dais for the Emperor, the opening to the dens below, 
from whence came the wild beasts, and. the door through which the 
martyrs passed whose blood shed here "became the seed of the 
church." In such surroundings the mind easily ran back to the 
age when a mutinous, suffering people were diverted and controlled 
by such scenes as were enacted here. 

Capitoline Mill is now, as of old, the heart of the city. Here 
the business of the government is still conducted. Opposite is 
Palatine Hill, the seat of the palaces of the Caesars. This was the 
site of the original settlement; the city grew up around it. Here 
we saw a remnant of the wall of Romulus; above it were the dwell- 
ing places of kings and nobility. As these grew in number and 
expanded, strong arches were built on the hillsides instead of 
foundation walls, and palaces spread themselves above. These 
arches covered wide passage ways, with stone steps leading to streets 
and interiors above. Nothing remains of all this ancient glory but 
crumbling walls, the outlines of gardens that were once the acme of 
outdoor beauty, the private forum where royalty disported itself 



apart from vulgar gaze, broken columns, ami all the marks of fallen 
greatness. From the wall of an old garden we looked down the 
precepitous side of the hill into the Forum; that great open space 
where public questions were discussed, the place of trial before a 
court of justice, and the place of proclamation. Here is the sacred 
way through which the conqueror made triumphal progress to 
sacrifice to the gods. Here is the temple where the vestal virgins 
guarded the sacred fire upon the altar. All now in ruin. The 
places are marked by broken walls and columns, grass-grown foun- 
tains, and crumbling pedestals from which the statuary has long 
since been removed. Patches of marble pavement are seen here 
and there. Some triumphal arches are still in a fair state of pres- 
ervation, notably that of Titus commemorating the conquest of 
Jerusalem. Just beyond is the Mamertine Prison where Paul was 
confined, and looking across the city from the hill, we saw the 
church built on the site, outside the city, where he met death. All 
useless debris is cleared away from these ruins, so that no difficulty 
is encountered in getting through them. The authorities leave 
nothing undone in the interest of historical research — and of so 
much per head. The latter consideration is evidently quite an 
addition to the revenue. 

In my early reading of the persecution of Christians under 
Nero, I had unconsciously, confused the catecombs with the ancient 
quarries outside the city, where they assembled for worship. I was 
surprised in consequence, when our drive to the catecombs took us 
out the Appian way to the open plains. We left the carriages at a 
gateway, and walked through what seemed to be a large cultivated 
field. A shaded roadway led up to a small one-story building, with 
a covered booth attached, where rosaries, crucifixes, post cards and 
souvenirs were exposed for sale. 

One of the young priests in charge who spoke English — or 
thought he did, for it was almost as unintelligible to us as his 
native tongue— gave each of us a wax candle for the descent. Our 
party conductor gave careful directions before descending. He 
explained that this was an ancient cemetery for royalty. That way 
back in the days of the earliest kings, jewels were buried with their 
dead; and to prevent the robbing of the graves by invading tribes, 
this place of burial was excavated in the solid rock beneath the 
plain — the small opening being carefully concealed. As Rome 



became mightier, the place was abandoned until the time of Nero, 
when Christians hid themselves in its recesses to escape his cruel 
rdiets. It is a perfect maze of low, narrow passage ways cut through 
soft stone; so intricate that the simple turning of a corner may 
menu complete bewilderment. The path is over rough hewn rock, 
and the tombs are excavations in the side-walls. These openings 
are (dosed with stone slabs, and on each is an inscription commem- 
orative of the dead. No two paths seem to be on the same level. 
Some descend quite deep. They turn and twist in every direction. 
We were cautioned to keep our lights burning and on no account 
lose sight of each other. A door in the small building opened 
directly on a narrow, steep, stone stairway, down which we passed 
in single file. We were conducted to the burial places of the most 
eminent persons, but after the first attempt to understand the 
remarks of the custodian, I discovered that the rude carvings them- 
selves »ave more information. 

o 

The tapers we carried were the only lights we had, and the 
path was so rough, with such frequent changes of grade and direc- 
tion, that we were obliged to watch every step we made, as well as 
to keep close to our next neighbor. Hence progress was difficult. 
We were led to the larger excavations where the persecuted ones 
hid themselves. These people had secret marks by which they 
penetrated the labyrinth, and by which they fled to remote recesses 
upon the approach of danger. Only by betrayal through a traitor 
among them could they be followed. 

We remained under ground long enough to form a general idea 
of the place. Those who had read up before hand were soon ready 
to turn toward fresh air and sunlight. Those who had not, pre- 
ferred to pursue the investigation above ground. The field seemed 
greener, the sunlight brighter, and the air sweet and refreshing 
when we came out into it all again. I carried my candle home as 
a souvenir of a grewsome experience. That men, women and 
children maintained life in such a place, is in itself miraculous, and 
vet an unfaltering faith carried them through the terrors of 
dungeon, cross and stake. 

We returned to the city by the Appian way, passing through 
the ancient gate by which Paul and his friends entered Rome. On 
the way several boys kept pace with the trotting horses, stopping 



only to turn an occasional "cartwheel" as dextrously as our own 
boys, and with outstretched hands to beg for "inonie, monie." 

SUNDAY IN ROME. 

Sunday in Rome ! Such a Sunday too, as would have been 
impossible thirty years ago. At nine o'clock we attended Sunday 
school in the central building of the Methodist Episcopal church, 
situated in the heart of the city. This great building is so con- 
structed that all the offices of the church are conducted under its 
roof. It is six stories high. On a corner facing a wide avenue, is 
a large auditorium — the Italian church — which seats eight hundred 
people, and is often crowded to the door?; there are also a large 
Sunday school room, and the rooms for social gatherings. On 
another street is the entrance to the American church, which 
ministers to English speaking residents, students and to thousands 
of tourists annually. The remaining part of the main floor is 
occupied by offices of the Publishing House, the mechanical part of 
that department being conducted in the basement. On the floor 
above are apartments for those engaged in the work. Upon the 
top floors are the Boys' College, and Reeder Theological School. 
Three thousand copies of a weekly religious paper go out from this 
press weekly, the editor being a gifted Italian pastor. They publish 
a fine Quarterly; the official organ of the Y. M. C. A.; a Children's 
Monthly, The Roman World, a weekly newspaper in English, 
besides the New Testament, their hymnals and many hooks and 
pamphlets. Within the four walls of this great building, have been 
set in motion the three great forces — the Christian pulpit, the 
Christian press and the Christian school. 

The Sunday school room is as well furnished and equipped as 
those of our cities. The school is as large as the average here; the 
members as well dressed, just as bright looking, and finer order I 
never saw in any assemblage. It was review day and in their 
readiness in response they put to shame our own school in Piedmont. 
They recited and sang as if the success of the school depended on 
each individual effort, and how they seemed to enjoy it ! 

Short addresses were made by our leaders through an inter- 
preter, and a young boy of about* sixteen who spoke English, was 
called to respond. He told us he was the son of an Italian minister, 
the grandson of an Italian minister, and was preparing himself for 



the ministry. And then that school stepped oul into the aisles and 
marched around the room in review carrying before them a big 
Italian flag and singing their national hymn. It was an inspiring 
occasion. They are not being trained to be Americans, nor Eng- 
lishmen, but good Italian citizens, with love of God, home and 
native land (irmly implanted. 

The English church is smaller but quite handsomely finished. 
The music was conducted by a choir of college boys, and the sermon 
was by the Rev. Adams, of Schenectady, N. Y., after which Dr. 
Tipple, the pastor, gave a very interesting history of the mission. 

In the afternoon a union meeting of all schools and congrega- 
t ions of the city was held in an immense concert hall. The building 
was crowded. Addresses were made by both the visitor and visited. 
Some of the native pastors spoke fine English; some thought they 
didn't need an interpreter, but were mistaken. The children sang 
delightfully, and after the exercises everybody had a time of social 
greeting and felicitation. 

The Woman's Foreign Missionary Society has a fine school in 
Rome called "The Vassar of Italy." It is lodged in Crandon Hall 
— the girls' dormitory — and Massey Hall — the school building, in 
the near future, an administration building will be erected between 
the two. It is situated in a beautiful suburb and also has fine 
grounds with a tennis court, a rare thing in Rome. The boarders 
came from all parts of Italy, and it is largely patronized by the 
diplomatic corps. Its musical department is in charge of one of 
Italy's most famous composers. The society also owns an old con- 
vent in another part of the city, which is used as a Home and 
Industrial School. This, too, is very successful. Three hundred 
and seventeen students are enrolled there now. Seventy boarders 
are accommodated. These come from all directions. There are 
regular courses in English, French and Italian. They are taught 
diawing, type-setting, lace-making and mending, embroidery, tine 
ironing, etc. These students come from the classes who must earn 
their living. Some give part time to the government schools to 
prepare for teaching. 



PISA AND FLORENCE. 

Leaving Rome our train carried us in a northerly direction, 
bringing us nearer the Appenines. We passed through vineyards, 
olive gardens and orchards. The farms became larger, and we saw- 
herds of the large, whitish -gray, long horned cattle for which this 
section is famous. The only settlements on the plains seem to be 
the villages that have grown up about the railroad stations. The 
towns are built on the foothills, with castles, towers and fortifica- 
tions in plain view from the train. Many of the old cities retain 
their ancient names. We passed Verona, the city of Romeo and 
Juliet. Beginning with Rome and the palaces of the Caesars, and 
going on to Mantua, Padua and Venice, the feeling grows on one 
that Italy is as truly the home of Shakespeare as is England. 

Pisa, an old, old city, said to have been built of the ruins of 
Carthage, six centuries before Christ, is on the banks of the A mo, 
about eight miles from its mouth. It is surrounded by old walls 
and moats, inside of which are gardens, lields and ruins of old con- 
vents. At the time of the Crusades it had a population of 150,000. 
Now there is nothing of special interest to the visitor, except the 
cathedral, the baptistry and the famous leaning tower. It is also 
the seat of a university. The tower leans, as the pictures sho\v r , at 
a dangerous looking angle. It is a round marble building, one 
hundred and seventy-nine feet high. One wonders why such a 
huge, elaborate building should be erected merely to support a bell. 
The question of the leaning is still unsettled. Some assert that it 
is caused by a sinking of the foundation, others thas it was built so, 
as an architectural curiosity. If the "line of direction should fall 
without the base," there would be a crash. The surrounding plaza 
is wide, and its inclination is from and not toward the cathedral. 
Some of our people climbed the winding stairs to the top for the 
view, and for the adventure, but found it a toilsome task. 

Galileo was born in Pisa. We were shown the great chandelier 
in the Cathedral, from the study of which he discovered the law of 
Ihe vibrations of the pendulum. 

From Pisa we went to Florence. This city is built in a beau- 
tiful valley, through which passes the river Arno, the two parts 
being connected by six bridges. This is conceded to be one of the 
finest cities of Italy. It resembles all others in the solidity of its 
construction, in the quaint, narrow streets, and antique buildings of 



its older sections; hut one feels the atmosphere of the Italy of art 

nnd literal ure as in no other plaee we visited. There is evidence on 
every hand thai here art is cherished for art's sake. That it is not 
trammeled either by church or state; that the fires of geniuB have 
burned freely. In all ages it has been a congenial home for scholars 
and artists. There are no finer collections in all Europe than are 
found in its galleries. Our hotel was in easy walking distance of 
many historical places, as well as other objects of great interest. 
Surrounding the great square and quite near, are the home of Dante, 
the home in which he wrote "The Divine Comedy," and the place 
where he was married. Facing the square is the prison in which 
Savanarola was confined, the court of justice in which he was con- 
demned to death, and just opposite, a tablet in the pavement marks 
the spot where he was executed. 'We saw also the monument 
erected to his memory. In a small space, the whole history of this 
great reformer may be studied, the open square where he denounced 
the profligacy of the people, his persecution, trial, condemnation, 
martyrdom and posthumous glorification. The fate of the reformer 
in all time. 

We visited the great Pitti galleries with their masterpieces of 
painting and sculpture, and the wonderful cathedral which dates 
from the fourteenth century. 

No other continental city has produced a greater number of 
celebrated men than Florence. Among them are Dante, Petrarch, 
Boccaccio, Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and here Galileo was 
educated. Mere in later life he was brought into conflict with 
the Inquisition because of his assertion that the sun was the centre 
of the universe, and only escaped persecution by refraining from 
teaching the doctrine. Seventeen years later he resumed the 
discussion, and was summoned to Rome for teaching that the earth 
moves, and not the sun. To escape imprisonment for life he 
recanted, but on leaving the hall of judgment he said to his friend, 
"It does move, though." He became blind and died in Florence. 

We were shown through the building where the wonderful 
Florentine mosaics are made. We saw the whole process, from the 
cutting of the colored stones to the finished work in the sale rooms. 
No machinery is used, and it is the most delicate and exquisite 
hand-work in Europe. No pencil or brush can excel the tints and 
shadings of* the pictures thus produced. 



We were shown one table top about two feel square, which 
required fifteen years to make. The priee was only for fat purses. 
Our people carried away a good many small artieles as souvenirs, 
such as paper weights, tiles, etc. The work was so fascinating that 
our guide had difficulty in getting his party away from it. We saw 
the making of laces, and our girls bought Tuscan hats fresh from 
the plaiters. The old bridge over the Arno, famous for the antique 
jewelry stores which line the sides, presented strong temptations to 
our souvenir hunters. 

A most delightful drive was over a boulevard which winds up 
the mountain side on the outskirts of the city. The avenue itself 
was the perfection of construction, and the grade was easy. It was 
very wide, and bordered on the hill side with beautiful homes in 
extensive grounds. On the opposite side, overlooking the city, 
large trees gave unbroken shade. At the top of the hill we came 
out upon a wide plaza ornamented with fountains and statuarv. 
From the railing extending around the lower side, the whole city 
was spread below us, a perfect panorama. We could trace the 
windings of the river from its entrance to the last suburb below, 
and locate the principal streets, buildings, parks and monuments. 

After gazing until our eyes wearied, we drove on through a 
large park, the perfection of landscape gardening, passing on the 
way the observatory in which Galileo made his great discoveries. 
Florence has a charm that no other city of Italy possesses. 

EASTWARD TO VENICE. 

Lombardy is called the "Garden of Italy/' Going toward the 
mountains we saw growing grains, fruits and vegetables of all kinds. 
Venice lies beyond the Appenines. Passing over the foothills, we 
wound in and out, but always upward, along the sides of snow-clad 
peaks. Tunnels are so close together that often the only interim is 
a flash of sunlight, a glimpse of a deep gorge and tumbling mountain 
stream, then a plunge into darkness. In this manner we crossed to 
the plains beyond through forty- eight tunnels. The highest point 
we reached is of greater altitude than that attained in crossing the 
Alps. The lowlands beyond present the same characteristics as the 
region of the western coast. 

The approach to Venice, the "Queen of the Adriatic," is quite 
similar to that to Atlantic City. We passed from the mainland on 
a trestle, through marshes, to open water interspersed with marshy 



islands, bringing u|> in a modern railroad station. We were de- 
tained inside the shed until the baggage was assorted. Here there 
was no suggestion of the unusual, but as we passed out into the 
open, there it all lay before us. There was no line of earriages 
awaiting us, with streets busy with traffic in view. Instead, we 
came out to a wide stone pavement, with stone steps leading down 
to the water of the Grand Canal. It was filled here with long, 
black, rakish gondolas with their swarthy gondoliers, who in a 
Bable of noisy Italian were gliding in and out to place for their 
cargo. Across the canal the water lapped the white walls of the 
houses, and over the balustrade of a bridge below, hung a heavy 
fringe of humanity watching the invasion from America. 

I suspect that even in this Mecca for tourists, a whole long 
special train of "Americanos" was something novel. While waiting 
our turn for embarkation, an immense truck load of baggage was 
rolled by, and I turned in time to see my special piece tumble from 
the tip-top to the pavement. J shut my eyes afraid of the conse- 
quences; but instead of a free expose of my personal belongings, 
nothing more than a few scratches was the result. Straps and 
hinges held, and I was thankful that I had packed in leather instead 
of the much advised rattan. The gondolas are just as pictured; 
long, low and narrow, rising high from the water in a sharp edge at 
each end. In the centre, under a canopy, are upholstered seats for 
four, sometimes five. Standing at each end are the boatmen with 
long poles to guide and propel the craft. Our baggage was piled in 
before and behind, and we glided away in the wake of our fellow 
travelers. The Grand Canal is in the shape of a huge letters. 
As the city is built on islands of many sizes, the streets follow the 
natural conformation; and are, in consequence, of varying width 
and as crooked as a maze. Sometimes we were in full view of our 
friends, and another turn would find us in a narrow passage with 
nothing familiar in sight. All the traffic of the city is carried on 
1 he water, and in some places the congestion was so great that we 
could not see how a collision could be avoided, particularly in pass- 
ing under some of the short, low lying bridges. To me there was 
nothing romantic nor even picturesque in this first experience in 
ibis famous old world city. I very much preferred the saloon deck 
of an ocean liner. Four women in a boat felt isolated from all the 
world they knew, and transplanted suddenly to the fourteenth 
century. However as nothing startling occurred, not even the 



grating together of two boats, which was marvelous under the 
circumstances, we gained courage and began to study the streets as 
we passed. Our progress was necessarily slow and we glided on to 
the incessant vocalization of language that sounded like war, but 
was only Italian exuberance. None of it was addressed to us, how- 
ever. It seemed to be an exchange of signals and directions. 

The tide being in, the water in many places lapped the very 
door sills. In wider squares a narrow pavement extended along the 
walls. An open door occasionally revealed a court inside, and 
sometimes over-hanging trees and blooming vines indicated a garden 
beyond. The distance to our hotel was greater than we thought 
possible. We landed on St. Mark's Square, passing directly from 
the boat up the steps to the hotel. This square contains the greatest 
interest for the traveler, and there one is able to go afoot when 
sight-seeing. 

VENETIAN DAYS. 

St. Mark's Cathedral with its five hundred marble columns, 
its wonderful mosaics, its bronze horses, its alabaster column carried 
here from Jerusalem by the Crusaders, its bell tower and town clock 
claimed our attention first, and outside, swirling and darting in and 
out of the lace-like tracery of its marble walls, hundreds of pigeons 
made the air white as with huge snow-flakes. In the olden times, 
a dove carried news to the Venetian army, which saved the city, 
and laid the foundation for the great prosperity that followed. 
Since then the doves have been protected and maintained by law. 

We were taken through the Doges' Palace. It is a grim solid 
building, blackened by time, but inside is still to be seen evidence 
of its former magnificence. It is now used only for state ceremonies. 
We saw at the head of a stair the huge lion's mouth of history. 
The head of a lion carved of stone is embedded in the wall. He 
who desired to denounce an enemy, dropped a note in the open 
mouth. This was removed on the inside, and arrest followed. We 
were taken to the room of the first trial, then to the chamber of the 
Council of Ten, then to the throne room where final sentence was 
passed. We followed the dolorous way to the Bridge of Sighs, 
leading # from the palace across a narrow canal to the prison beyond. 
From this prison the condemned rarely ever came out. The old 
dungeons are below the water line. The bridge is not in use now, 



being condemned as unsafe, and as the prison is still the city jail, it 
is not open to visitors. 

We inspected the famous glass works. Saw the process of 
making the ornamental glass for which the city has long been 
famous. The show rooms here are like fairyland. We were taken 
by special invitation through a large lace-making establishment. 
Here an Minn of women and girls were at work with pillow and 
bobbins, weaving the delicate fabrics that have tempted Eve's 
daughters in all ages. Everything and everybody were spotlessly 
clean, and the finished work needed no laundry. The display was 
fascinating, hut the prices were quite equal to those of Xew York. 
Evidently they were (ixed for the occasion. Those who had the 
fear of the custom house before their eyes, just looked, and were 
glad to see the real article in process of construction. One of our 
young ladies spent forty dollars and then had only a narrow strip 
of lace for the front of a waist. 

The glass mosaics are very beautiful; the construction is 
similar to those in Florence. 

OUR NATIONAL HOLIDAY. 

The Fourth of July was spent in Venice. The Stars and 
Stripes flew from all hotels that lodged our people, and we each 
wore a tiny Hag in honor of the day.. The day was spent going 
through art galleries, churches and other places of interest. A 
friend and 1 concluded in the afternoon that we were surfeited with 
ancient art, and so we remained in our boat at the different land- 
ings, and studied modern life in Venice. At one place quite an 
open square gave us a chance to see the natives moving about 
attending to their business. The women have heavy black hair 
parted on the side, combed plainly over their ears and knotted low 
behind. They wear heavy woolen skirts made full, and are invari- 
ably bareheaded. They all, young and old, wear large black 
shawls folded three cornered, as our grandmothers wore them. 
These shawls are bordered with a deep silk fringe. Our gondoliers 
remained with our boat while waiting at the different stopping 
places, but paid no further attention to us than to ask for "monie, 
drink." This of course we refused and they said nothing more. 

A patriotic meeting was held in the evening atone of the 
hotels, when "Americans" celebrated with song and speech as at 



home. Our hotel had evidently been originally a palace. The 
finish and arrangement were that of a home, or rather of the 
residence of wealth and fashion, for no palace that we saw seemed 
in the least home-like. 

In Southern Italy the fleas treated me with the utmost respect; 
not so with the musquitos of Venice. Our beds were closely 
screened, but I shared with the company the results of their 
visitations. We took an early train on leaving for Milan, and 
saw the city at low tide. The exposed walls were green and slimy 
with barnacles clinging. The "street cleaners" were aboard on flat 
barges, and with long-handled, many pronged forks were loading 
up the floating debris. The water for domestic use is brought from 
the mainland in pipes. It is all strange, full of Middle Age charm, 
but to properly appreciate Venice, one should be young enough to 
ignore the dampness, the musquitos and the frequent rainfall. 

THE CATHEDRAL OF MILAN. 

Milan is the largest city in Italy after Naples, and is by far 
the most modern and enterprising. Its fine business houses, its fine 
thoroughfares filled with traffic, remind one of New York, while its 
beautiful ornamented plazas, its monuments, its triumphal arches 
and statuary, commemorative of the events and of the men who 
have made history in Italy, suggest our city of Washington. It is 
an old city, but ruins are not preserved here. When a building 
outlives its usefulness it is replaced with a modern structure. It is 
the centre of the silk trade, and is the greatest book market in 
Italy. There are many traces of French occupation. Napoleon 
was crowned King of Italy in the Cathedral here. We were shown 
the great arena he built, his statue, triumphal arches, etc. We 
visited the art galleries with their priceless treasures. 

To the tourist the great object of interest is the Cathedral. It 
has become so familiar through illustrations that no one fails to 
recognize it at a glance, and still it is a surprise, a revelation 
when first seen, with the dazzling sunlight on its lofty tower and 
needle-like spires, its lace-like tracery of decoration, and wealth of 
statuary — a bewildering glory of white marble. It dates from the 
fourteenth century, and is the finest Gothic edifice in the kingdom. 
Many of our people climbed the tower to view the statuary that 
crowns the roof, and for the extensive view of the city. Inside are 



the usual marble columns, gorgeous altars and profusion of statuary 
of nil periods and degrees of excellence. We were shown the 
gorgeous vestments, regalia and vessels used in the service, kept 
here in lockers, from remote acres. We were taken to a crypt below 
to a chapel dedicated to an archbishop, who. in the olden time, had, 
in some miraculous way. staved the hand of pestilence in the 
province. The hones, clothed in the magnificent robes of his office, 
the skull covered with a mitre, lie in a glass coffin, on a breast-high 
catafalque richly draped. Candles are kept burning constantly. 
The walls and floor are of polished marble, and the ceiling of solid 
silver in massive 1 carving. 

In our tour we saw several statues of St. Bartholomew, who, 
tradition says, was flayed alive and then put to death. In one 
church he is portrayed with a scarf-like drapery about his body, 
from which depends the skin of a hand and forearm, and that of the 
head and face with the hair and beard on. The head of the statue 
also has hair and beard. The guide remarked with a twinkle, "I 
suppose it grew again." 

Here in this building, beautiful as a dream, stands poor 
Bartholomew suffering a perpetual martyrdom by standing in his 
bar; 1 anatomy, through the centuries, with his whole skin thrown 
over his shoulder like a discarded union suit. All this may be 
useful as commemorative of the sufferings of the saint, but could not 
be expected to arouse a feeling of devotion. As works of art they 
are grotesque rather than artistic. 

THE LAST SUPPER. 

Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" has less imposing sur- 
roundings than any other famous picture we saw. It is painted on 
the end wall of the refectory of an old monastery. There is nothing 
else of interest there. The room is now simply the show place of 
this original painting. The side walls are lined with copies made 
l>\ modern artists. This room is rectangular in shape, the entrance 
being in one end and has a wainscot four or live feet high, on all 
four sides. The picture covers the end opposite the entrance, 
reaching from the wooden wainscot to the ceiling. The monks 
evidently had little appreciation of the value of the picture, for 
they cut a doorway through the wall under it, which carried away 
part of the cloth of the table. During French control this room 



was used as a stable. The mural paintings of the old masters arc 
done in water colors. The walls have a smooth, hard surface which 
holds the colors remarkably. But this picture was done in oil; and 
when, after years of neglect, an attempt was made to remove the 
dirt and restore it, it scaled off in spots. This gives a speckled 
appearance, defacing it somewhat, but not enough to destroy a 
single outline. 

By standing at the entrance and thus viewing it at a distance, 
its chief beauty is brought out; a beauty that all copies have failed 
to reproduce — the wonderful perspective in the large window behind 
the Christ, There the hills of Judea seem so real, that I seemed to 
be looking through a window in the building to real hills in the 
purple distance. 

We visited the fashionable cemetery on our way to our hotel. 
The approach was through a massive gateway in a high wall. The 
entrance was through a flower garden. Coming to the place of 
burial the first thought was that we were in a marble yard. The 
graves were so close together, and the decorations so elaborate, there 
was barely room to pass between them. Every conceivable type of 
woe is here represented in marble. 

Life-sized husbands bow in grief over the graves of their wives. 
Fathers and mothers are in attitudes of despair over dead children. 
Wives lie prone on the graves of their husbauds. Widows with 
grief stricken faces and little children clinging to them, kneel in 
prayer. 

One tomb is a production of the scene of the resurrection. 
The sepulchre had been hewn in a great rough block of granite. 
The stone rolled from the door is on one side, and on it the angel 
sits. On the opposite side is the approaching Mary, with fear and 
amazement depicted in her attitude and face. 

The figures are in snow white marble and all life-size. It is 
the most beautiful entombment I ever saw, but the effect is marred 
by the crowded condition of its surroundings; nothing, however^ 
could detract from the beauty, grace and expression of the figures. 

Only great wealth can so commemorate its dead. 



THE ALPS. 

After leaving Milan, we soon found ourselves among the lower 
Alps and in the lake region of Italy. These mountain peaks rise 
directly from valleys with small farms and little villages. The 
beautiful lakes nestle among the mountains, and reflect their 
verdure in the clear waters. The longer ranges began as we neared 
t he Swiss frontier. At Lake Como on the Italian border we reached 
a higher altitude. Here our company divided— a part remaining 
for Sunday at this famous resort, and the rest going on to Lake 
Lugano, just within the Swiss border. Here we had our first 
encounter with custom house officers since leaving Naples. But one 
piece of baggage in our company was inspected; the only result was 
a hearty laugh at the owner's expense. The inference was that she 
was the only suspicious looking member of the party. The inspec- 
tion was merely perfunctory througout until we reached Southamp- 
ton, England. 

The scenery was fine as we passed on, but nigh; came before we 
reached our destination. Our section of the divided party filled two 
hotels at Lugano. We were delightful!}* housed and entertained 
here. On entering my room I stepped through a large casement 
window to a stone balcony, and the view that met my gaze almost 
took my breath. We were on the side of the mountain over-looking 
the lake, and the town lay in a crescent along the shore. The lake 
is not wide here, and the peaks on the opposite side stood out clearly 
against the star-lit-sky. The spacious grounds of our hotel led 
down to the town in beautiful terraces, all brilliantly lighted. 
Funicular railways carry passengers to the summits of the moun- 
tains opposite, and the routes were indicated by lines of electric 
lights. The town is beautifully lighted, and the lake was dotted 
with moving lights like beautiful fireflies as boats passed to and fro. 

As I stood and gazed at the unspeakable beauty of it all, and 
listened to the merry chatter in adjoining balconies and to the sound 
of music in the grounds below, the window behind me seemed to 
have been the doorway to the Italy of my dreams. Next morning 
the first waking thought was of the vision of the night before; but 
a glance at the window revealed clouds and rain. In spite of that 
the outlook was one of beauty. 

The mountains are almost percipitous but green to the summit. 
The town is well built and adorned. The terraces below me were 



a picture of well-kept, trees, shrubbery, and (lowers, and the grass 
like velvet, A long flight of steps led down to the lake shore. 

LUGANO AND BEYOND. 

Lugano, like Como, is an ideal summer resort, The winters 
here, we were told, are similar to our own. In fact, there is great 
similarity between the climate of Italy and that of our own country 
south of the Mason and Dixon line. Tim changes are caused by 
difference in altitude rather than latitude. Coming from the south 
to the northern extremity, we found the same clothing necessary 
that we are accustomed to in the same season. Light snow-fall is 
not unusual in Rome, and among the Appenines the fall is often 
heavy. 

Two noticeable things, among many others, in Italy 1 have 
failed to mention. One is the beauty of the horses, and I might 
add the skillful driving. I thought I had seen perfection in driving 
while coaching in our "Rockies," where only faith in the driver 
prevented a panic, but all through Europe our drivers were not 
excelled in handling the reins, by anything I ever saw before. In 
Algiers, in the rush to see the Arab section of the city before night- 
fall, the drive through the French quarter was apparently reckless; 
but nothing went amiss, and we passed through it safely. 

At Naples the horses were in poor condition, but everywhere 
else they were well cared for and handled most kindly. The other 
noticeable thing was the fine condition of the roads. In fact this 
was the case every where from Naples to Liverpool. p]ven among 
the Alps where roads were at all possible, they were well constructed". 
I conclude this is one of the necessities of military preparedness. 

The rain kept many of us indoors that Sunday at Lugano, 
though some ventured out to an English service in the morning. 
A short service was held in the evening in the dining-room of our 
hotel for the shut-ins. 

Monday morning we were booked for an excursion on the lake; 
but the heavy fog on the mountains and the mist on the lake were 
not inviting, and I remained ashore. 

Leaving Lugano our way was steadily upward. The little 
valleys finally disappeared and became mere gorges between snow- 
capped peaks. Down the mountain sides came rushing waterfalls 



from ice fields so far above thai they were lost in spray and mist 
before they reached the gorge below. 

The marvelous feat of engineering, which carried the road 
from gorge to gorge over massive stone archways, across fearful 
chasms, through tunnels hewn in solid rock, winding in and out upon 
itself, gave frequent opportunity to look down upon the way we had 
come, and forward to that we were approaching. We literally 
traveled upon our feet. The cars were admirably constructed for 
observation, and we hurried from side to side, each new view being 
more wonderful than the last. 

Reaching St. Gothard Pass, the long, long ride through the 
tunnel gave time for rest, and the exchange of impressions that 
always follows the stir of an unusual experience. Descending we 
passed into a less percipitous region, in which the evident struggle 
to wrest a living from the soil was pathetic. Here and there on the 
steep mountain sides, a tiny green patch, supported on the lower 
side by a rough stone wall, showed an attempt to grow something. 
Wherever enough soil could be found something was planted. An 
occasional thatched hut was the only sign of homelife. Many of 
these cultivated spots seemed so inaccessible that the wonder was 
how the owners reached them. One could understand that nothing 
but the fierce Swiss love of country, could hold the native to such 
a life. 

As we passed downward the gorges widened into valleys, the 
huts became chalets, and these in turn became more pretentious 
with their surrounding porches above the basement and their tiled 
roofs. The basements seemed to be used for the stock. Coming 
down to the lake shores we found pretty towns, clean, inviting 
resorts. Our route lay through the William Tell region. Along 
the shore of Lake Uri we passed the place where Tell escaped from 
the boat of Gesler, the tyrant. Not far away is the William Tell 
Chapel. 

Among these mountain fastnesses, the liberty-loving Swiss 
conspired against their Austrian oppressors, and made possible a 
Swiss Republic. 



AN ALPINE CENTRE. 

Zurich, the convention city, has a population of 200,000. It 
is situated in a beautiful valley along the shore of Lake Zurich. It 
covers the plain and all the accessible foothills, and is surrounded 
by the Alps. From all points in the city and on the lake can be 
seen a horizon of snowy peaks and ranges. 

The principal streets are wide and beautifully shaded. The 
construction is what we term modern, but which there bears the 
impress of time and long usage. The wonder is that our wide 
awake country has been so slow in adopting the building methods 
which stand for comfort, durability, and sanitation. The city is 
solid, substantial, comfortable; and is adorned with beautiful parks, 
gardens, squares, statuary and fountains. Buildings of historic 
interest are well preserved and kept in use. Among the most 
striking is the Grossmunster, the great Cathedral founded by 
Charlemagne, and in which Zwingli preached his first sermon in 
15131; and where the great reformer continued his work until his 
heroic death on the battlefield of Kappel. The Fraumunster was 
founded by the grandson of Charlemagne. These two historic 
churches were used during the convention, for overflow and special 
meetings. 

Heinrich Pestalozzi, the founder of the Swiss educational 
system, has left here an enduring monument to his memory in the 
great University and the Federal Technological School which have 
a world wide fame. As a result of his labor, no children in the 
world have greater educational advantages than those of Zurich. 
Commissions from all the world come here to study the methods, 
and they are being gradually adopted in every civilized nation. 

Zurich is a Mecca for tourists. Lines of travel converge here, 
and it is a point from which the scenic attractions of Switzerland 
can be most easily reached. It is also a great commercial centre. 
Traffic from the north going south, and that from Italy going north 
pass here, also that going west to France and eastward to Austria. 
The people are genial and full of courtesy. The display in the 
markets of fruits, vegetables and flowers, cannot be surpassed any- 
where. The "market wagons" are low carts with large handsome 
dogs in the harness — the finest dogs we saw abroad. Sometimes the 
dog and man are harnessed together. The people in both city and 
country are cleanly, and have a well-fed appearance. 



On the streets we constantly uiel hunters and mountain 
olimbers equipped for their vocations. In the store windows were 
displayed Alpine stocks, boots for climbing, etc. The gray-green 
Norfolk jackel and knickerbockers, the long leather leggings, the 
heavy shoes, the pack strapped to the back and the jaunty Alpine 
hat with its green feather erect which surmounted the outfit, ceased 
in a few days to attract our attention. 

When it rains in Zurich, men and women, girls and boys alike, 
wear long black capes instead of raincoats, and they certainly look 
snug and comfortable, in the florists' windows eidelweiss, the snow 
white flower of the Alps, was seen, growing in pots, cut for sale, and 
beautifully pressed. There are twelve temperance restaurants in 
the city, established and managed by a Woman's Temperance 
Society. They began with one, and from the net returns opened 
another. They followed this plan until the present number was 
reached. 

THE GREAT CONVENTION HALL. 

The Tonhalle in which the convention was held, is a beautiful 
building in a line garden which opens on the boulevard that borders 
the lake. The unsophisticated gave the name a liberal translation, 
calling it "Town Hall" and supposed it was devoted to the general 
uses of such buildings. We soon discovered that the "o" was long 
and as "Tone Hall" it was dedicated to the harmonies. The 
garden and the ground floor are used for banquets and other social 
gatherings, and the necessary work rooms. During the convention 
this floor was used for offices, cloak-rooms, exhibits of Sunday school 
work and supplies, displays from schools in foreign work, bureau of 
information, etc. On the floor above it is the great auditorium, the 
concert room with its surrounding galleries and adjoining lobbies, 
rest rooms, committee rooms, etc. 

The great hall is beautifully finished and furnished. Our 
committee added simple but tasteful decorations, indicative of the 
Sunday school work and its extent. Above the platform was 
suspended a. large globe, a reminder of the world wide scope of the 
work; above it was placed a red cross which, when lighted at night, 
was a beautiful symbol of the ''light which lighted the world." 
Back of the platform and in front of the great organ, was the White 
Cross (lag of Switzerland, with the flags of America and Great 



Britain on cither side. On the walls were two large pictures of 
Pestalozzi and Ulrich Zwingli. 

Twenty-six hundred registered delegates, representing seventy 
countries, with thousands of unregistered visitors, brought together 
the ends of the earth at this one of the most remarkable religious 
gatherings in the history of the world. North America sent 1844 
accredited representatives, Great Britain 288; Asia 83; Africa 565 
Australia 30. and South America 24. Continental Europe enrolled 
728. Every state except Utah and New Mexico was represented, 
and every Canadian province except Manitoba. 

Before the opening of the convention a reception was given the 
delegates by Mrs. Reiter Bodman, in her beautiful home, where the 
Kaiser Wilhelm had been entertained, and where Wagner lived and 
wrote several of his great works. 

Our party was most comfortably housed, our hotel having been 
reserved a year in advance. The table was all that could be desired; 
the food being abundant, well-cooked and beautifully served. Here 
we had our introduction to down beds as a covering. We were 
located on the principal street about a mile from the Tonhalle, but 
the car line thereto passed our door. 

THE GREAT CONVENTION. 

At the opening of the convention at Zurich a gavel from 
Burma was presented to the president, Dr. Bailey, of Philadelphia. 
It wes in the shape of the gong and hammer used by the Burmes 
to call to service. It was made of wood from the home and prison 
of Adoniram Judson, the pioneer missionary to that country. The 
opening service was conducted by Bishop Vincent, and the sermon 
was delivered by Rev. Floyd Tompkins, of Philadelphia. 

A general reception was given at which the mayor of the city 
made an address of welcome. Resident church officials gave words 
of greeting, and the American consul was quite enthusiastic in his 
welcoming. He said among other things that "as a good Catholic, 
I give a hearty hand clasp and a God-speed to any man whatever 
his creed, who strives for the betterment of humanity." The 
Methodist resident bishop, Dr. Nuelson, having been born in a 
Zurich parsonage, reared in America, then returned to his native 
city in the episcopal rotation, was peculiarly happy in his remarks- 

An interesting feature of the convention was the bilingual 



en; 



baracter of the exercises. About 71 per cent, of Swiss speak 
German. The program was given in English and German princi- 
pally. The majority of Continental people speak French in addition 
to their own language. The interperter, Prof. Luring, of Frankfort, 
is a remarkable linguist; he speaks fluently and intelligently twenty- 
seven languages. Added to this great "gift of tongues," is a 
remarkable personality, a grace and dignity that were so expressive 
that they held the attention even of those who did not understand 
the language spoken. Persons who understood, pronounced some of 
the translations superior to the original addresses. 

Dr. L. B. Meyer, of London, conducted devotional exercises 
each morning. This venerable man is an ardent Sunday school 
worker, not only in his own parish, but has compassed the globe in 
the study of schools and their needs. 

The music of the convention was a pleasing feature; Miss 
Esslinge-r, daughter of a resident pastor, was the organist. A fine 
choir led the congregational singing. 

A full report of the forty-five sessions held in those eight days 
is altogether too voluminous for these pages. Great themes were 
discussed, and far reaching plans laid by men of weight and world 
wide influence. Six commissions had been sent out long before to 
study school conditions in all lands, and their reports were most 
thrilling. A vast amount of information was thus presented, and 
being thorough, correct and up-to-date, furnished a solid foundation 
for plans for the future. 

The missionary feature dominated the convention. As the 
result of the very stirring reports from Africa and the Orient, work 
among the Mohammedans was emphasized as being the most diffi- 
cult, and at the same time, owing to new conditions among them, 
the most imperative. One representative from the Orient covered 
the situation by saying, "The most difficult thing to do in the world, 
is to induce the proudest man in the world to accept from the man 
he hates the thing he hates." And yet as a menace to civilization 
the Moslem rule heads the list and must be considered. 

The convention placed in the hands of its executive committee 
$125,000 for advancing a work which Dr. Bailey declared repre- 
sents kk a large constituency, covers more territory and has a wider 
reach of influence than any other association of men and women the 
world has ever known. 



Aside from the regular program, there were man}' pleasing 
events, notably that of the presentation by Dr. Ibuka, of Japan, of 
an invitation to hold the next World's Convention in Tokyo. On 
motion of Mr. Heinz, of Pittsburg, heartily seconded by Sir Francis 
Belsey, of London, the invitation was accepted with enthusiasm. 
The autumn of 1916 is the time fixed. 

Another interesting episode was the presentation by Mr. Heinz 
to the association, of two fine portraits in oil, one of Bishop Vincent, 
and the other of Sir Francis Belsey. These were happily presented, 
and received in a most appreciative manner. They are to be hung 
in the Administration Building in Chicago. 

An impressive service was held in memory of Mrs. Hartshorn, 
wife of the first vice president. News of her death in Boston reached 
us at sea by wireless. She and her husband have been pioneers in 
the World Sunday School work, and most generous supporters. 
Sunday morning was devoted to a mass meeting of the city Sunday 
schools. These filled the Tonhalle to overflowing so that no space 
on floor or galleries was left for visitors except the seats on the stage 
and the outside lobbies. One of the great churches was used at the 
same hour for the overflow. The order of exercises was the same 
in both places. The addresses were in German, and the singing was 
fine. At the close the schools marched to a nearby park and sang 
familiar hymns to the delight of thousands who gathered to hear 
them. The Sunday school army of which these Swiss schools are a 
part, numbers 28,700,00 in 298,000 schools; the largest Christian 
army in the world marching under one banner. 

One evening of the convention was devoted to a concert given 
by a chorus of 450 picked voices under the leadership of Dr. Bucher. 
They sang in German, and were assisted by the Tonhalle orchestra 
of 42 pieces, one of the finest symphony orchestras in Europe. 
Other artists of great merit contributed, including a band of ten 
Swiss yodlers, who so enthused the multitude that they were 
allowed to leave the stage only after repeated encores, to which 
they most generously responded. Every seat was filled, and hun- 
dreds remained standing during the two hours of the concert. 

The convention unanimously elected Sir Robert Laidlow, of 
London, as president for the next three years. This gentleman is 
an untiring Sunday school worker at home and in the wider field. 
He is a man of large affairs, having extensive business interests 



both in England and India. He is a princely giver and for a long 
time lias been a leader of the organized work in Great Britain. He 
is a Congregationalist. Mr. Heinz is chairman of the executive 
oommittee. Of Ids business qualification for the office it is not 
necessary to speak, but his great generosity and untiring activity in 
this field of usefulness may not be so generally known. With his 
keen foresight and generous planning, a great advance in the move- 
ment may be expected in the next three years. 

The association of these two leading husiness men in a cause of 
such great interest to both, will mean much to humanity the world 
over. The close of the convention is the renewal of effort. 

ALPINE TRIPS. 

Zurich being the centre of scenic Switzerland, and a place from 
which all the principal points of interest have been made accessible, 
the members of the convention availed themselves of every oppor- 
tunity for sightseeing. The tour of Lake Zurich is not the least of 
these excursions. It is bordered with many beautiful country 
homes, and with picturesque towns and villages all alive with busi- 
ness; with here and there quaint costumes and traces of antique 
customs, which are rapidly being crowded to the rear by this enter- 
prising little republic. 

Quite near the city rises the Uetilburg, the summit of which 
is reached by a mountain railway. The view from this point is 
magnificent. It includes a view of the entire range of the Swiss 
Alps from the frontier to Lake Constanoe, and from the plateau, 
with the Jura behind it, to the Black Forest. The mountains 
spread out in snowy billows and peaks all around, the city and lake 
lie directly below. There is a trail up the mountain for those who 
prefer to reach the top afoot. 

A short trip by rail and boat takes one to Interlachen; and 
funicular and cog roads carry you to the top of Rigi and other 
famous peaks. Two ladies of our party joined a little company 
bound for Rigi. They were careful to provide themselves with 
sufficient Swiss money to cover the day's necessary expenses. When 
the time for descent drew near, they were so absorbed in the 
wondeiful outlook that they missed the last car down. There they 
were, stranded alone on the summit of Rigi with no hope of getting 
down till next day. They counted their money, and decided they 



could only afford a bed and breakfast if these eould be found in the 
little homes of the curio and refreshment people, who are always 
found in such places. After repeated efforts, they found a hospit- 
able woman who gave them a clean bed, and a comforting breakfast 
which they relished after their long fast, and strenuous day. When 
they reached their hotel they laughed heartily over their adventure, 
but assured us there was little fun in being marooned over night on 
Rigi, with little money and less knowledge of the language. 

THE LION OF LUCERNE. 

I accompanied two friends to Lucerne. We were posted by 
those who had made the trip, as to the route, cost of round trip 
tickets, etc. At the station the young lady of our party fell into 
line at the ticket window, and asked for "three tickets to Lucerne 
and back." The clerk laid down three straight tickets. She 
refused them and repeated her order; this was without effect, and 
after a third refusal she was obliged to accept the tickets and make 
way for others. While we stood relieving our minds in regard to 
an official who would thus take advantage of strangers, Judge 
Chaffee and his ladies passed. They too had been unable to get 
round trip tickets, and we all knew they were on sale. The ride 
down the lake and through the pretty valleys between the moun- 
tains, with their clean little towns, to Lake Lucerne was very 
pleasant. 

On our arrival, we passed from the station through a wide 
plaza to a large stone bridge over an arm of the lake. Looking 
about us from this point, we saw the town lying along the narrow 
valley which borders the lake and stretching up the gorges between 
the mountains. While the mountains themselves were so precipi- 
tous, so close above us, and so high, that it seemed that a clap of 
thunder, or any unusual atmospheric disturbance, would surely 
bring those great lofty masses of snow down upon us in an avalanche 
that would bury everything below. The loftiest, Pilatus, is so 
directly above the street on which the railroad station stands, that 
to the novice it seemed a dangerous neighborhood. 

Leaving the bridge, we passed down a beautifully shaded 
boulevard along the lake front, and turned into a cross street that 
brought us to the heart of the town. The streets are fine and are 
bordered with substantial business houses and splendid hotels. 
Everything is planned to cater to the demands of the tourist. 



Missing the right turning point, wc brought up at an old stone 
church. I failed to get its history but it is evidently a sample of 
the infancy of architecture. The finish inside is plain and crude, 
and the statuary on the stone terrace outside is grotesque. 

As the "Lion of Lucerne" was the object of our search, we 
retraced our steps. By the kindly aid of an English speaking lady 
who had noticed our hesitant movements, we found our way up the 
mountain side over a beautifully shaded roadway. A turn in the 
road brought us abruptly to our destination. Against the hillside 
stands an immense granite rock so imbedded in the mountain that 
only its chiseled face is exposed. Cut from this surface in bas 
relief, is the colossal figure of the dying lion which has made the 
fame of its sculptor, Thorwaldsen, immortal. It lies with paws 
extended protectingly over the shield of France, with a barb in its 
side from which the blood trickles. As we gazed at the drooping 
head and the closing eyes, we almost waited for the expiring breath. 

Cut in the rock beneath is an inscription in Latin, dedicating 
the stone to the memory of the brave Swiss Guards, who, during the 
French Revolution gave their lives in defense of the royal family of 
France. About the base of the rock and protected by an iron rail, 
is a pretty pool in which water lilies grow. Near by is a very 
interesting curio store where the people were loading up with 
souvenirs. Just beyond, a gate opens into a park; but as a visit 
involved further climbing we returned to the town, taking our way 
leisurely through the streets. Recrossing the bridge, we visited a 
quaint aquariam for water fowl. It was a weir in the lake, 
enclosed by high wire fencing as are our poultry yards. Each 
species had a large division to itself. There I saw for the first time 
a black swan. I had always considered it a mythical creation. 

On our way to the ticket office of the station, I noticed a rail- 
road olficial, (they are all uniformed) who looked English. I asked 
if he spoke our language. "Yes, Madam. How can I serve you." 
We told the story of the round trip tickets, and asked for an 
explanation. He said we should have received them, and asked 
what we had asked for. Our young lady repeated the conversation 
— how she had asked for tickets "to Lucerne and back" and had 
been refused three times. "O," said he "these clerks must know 
their own language and French. Tf you had said 'to Lucerne and 
return' you would have been given the tickets. The French and 



English for 'return' are so nearly the same, that he would have 
understood. He simply didn't know the word 'back.' " J record 
this incident that none of my readers may miss the round trip rates 
abroad. The trip, however, was well worth much more than it 
cost us. 

This delightful day among most impressive scenes, in the mots 
congenial company, will remain a landmark in my memory. 

A DAY AT HEIDELBERG. 

With so many evidences of business activity both in the cities 
and agricultural regions, and with such rare educational advantages 
as both Switzerland and Germany afford, I expressed surprise that 
these people ever come to our new T undeveloped country with its 
rawness still so near the surface. A gentleman of our party replied: 
"I thought that too, and to enlighten myself asked a railroad con- 
ductor one day what wages he received. 'Seventy-five cents a day,' 
he answered 'and if the service is satisfactory, at the end of a year 
twenty-five cents is added.' ' The cost of living there is not so low 
as to make life comfortable, from our point of view, on such an 
income. 

Everywhere more money and a "chance," are the reasons given 
for coming to America. No doubt enforced military duty is a 
potent though unexpressed cause of emigration. My conclusion is 
that the middle classes of Europe rarely leave their country. Those 
who do, have been unfortunate in some waj T that makes a change 
desirable. But the "son of toil" looks westward with longing eyes 
to a land where the labor of his hands finds adequate recompense, 
to a land of opportunity. 

We left Zurich regretfully. There are so many interesting 
points within easy reach, that a whole season could be delightfully 
spent there. Going north, by rail we passed into an open rolling 
country which ends in the Black Forest. Here for miles the hills 
and valleys are covered with a dense growth of a species of pine 
with a heavy, dark foliage, which almost produced twilight at 
midday, and which gives name to the region. Here the Swiss 
obtain the wood for their famous carvings. From potteries among 
these hills, are sent out a quaint ware in medieval shapes and 
markings. 

Our first stop this day was at the old university town of 



Heidelberg. Upon leaving the train we were told to leave in our 
compartments our handbags, wraps and umbrellas— the cars would 
be locked, side-tracked and in the care of the porters. We had done 
this on previous short stops and found it a relief. Heidelberg is 
built, on both sides of the river Neckar, in a valley surrounded by 
heavilv timbered mountains. It is an old city, built for all time, 
well-paved and clean. 

It is the centre of the toy industry; many of the dolls our 
children have are made here. But the great university has made 
the city famous, and is the .Mecca toward which students all over 
the world turn longing faces. 

As we approached the city every eye had watched the opposite 
mountain for a first-sight of the great castle of Heidelberg. There 
it stood in bold relief, high up the mountain side, with massive 
foundation and outer wall, parapet, rampart, its turrets, its towers, 
its keep, all complete as "in days of old when men were bold." A 
drive through the principal streets gave us a comprehensive idea of 
the city; then passing through a suburb we began to climb to the 
castle. 

THE WAY THITHER. 

The road wound around the mountain side, passing cozy little 
homes in woody recesses overlooking the city and river below, until 
we arrived at the Castle Park. No carriages are allowed to enter 
here. From the general lay of the land — being very precipitous — 
I concluded that this level park is an artificial formation; having 
been made by cutting down the mountains above and filling in 
below, thus building a flat area of several acres. Here is evidence 
of careful planting and beautifying, though a growth of centuries 
gives a dense woodland effect. The gravelled walks are well-kept, 
the undergrowth cleared away, the grass clean and clipped, and the 
shrubbery trimmed. Here and there pavilions on the border give 
the beautiful views of the city. 

At the outer entrance to the castle we were met by the local 
guide, an intelligent German lady who spoke English. From the 
first gate we crossed an open space to the drawbridge over the moat. 

The moat is now empty and grass grown; but in times of 
necessity a depth of twenty-five feet of water was maintained. The 
drawbridge over which we passed is strong enough to bear the 
weight of heavy artillery. This brought us to the sally-post 



through walls seventeen feet thick. Here hangs the portcullis of 
massive timber and iron bands, in the centre of which is the wicket 
through which the guardsman may take observation before lie gives 
admittance. Passing under, we emerged into a wide, open, paved 
court, around the three sides of which the castle is built. 

I stood and gazed around, suddenly transferred to the four- 
teenth century. Without closing my eyes, my mental vision 
revealed the prancing steeds with their armored riders with polished 
shield and lance glittering in the sunlight, dashing through the 
gate way; and the plumed knights on gayly caparisoned horses, and 
dainty ladies with poised falcons returning from the hunt, and could 
hear the ring of the hoofs of their pretty palfreys on the cobbled 
court. 

In the centre of the main building is the great banquet hall, 
now used for the display of antiquities belonging to the castle. 
Some pictures and statues which adorned this ancient stronghold, 
still remain and keep alive its stories of medieval ohivalry and 
heroism. From the rampart in front of the castle we gazed down 
the precipitous face of the mountain hundreds of feet to the valleys 
below, with the whole city and river spread out before us. Modern 
artillery from this point could defend the whole valley. 

We inspected the living rooms, the barracks, the store-rooms, 
now bare and untenanted, passing through doors in stone walls 
sometimes twenty-five feet thick, climbed narrow steep stairways to 
balconies above, and to the summits of to .vers from which the views 
are indescribable. We followed the guide down into the court yard 
and into the rooms below where servants had been quartered, and 
the domestic machinery had place. Here in the wine room we saw 
the "biggest barrel on earth" — a great wine cask so immense that a 
railed platform on top of it affords room for a dance. 

Within these walls is room for ample sustenance and refresh- 
ment for a long siege. In fact so nearly impregnable is the castle 
that reduction by starvation seems the only possible way. 

From the Castle Park we were driven to the university. These 
are plain, substantial brick buildings. Here are to be seen the 
usual scholastic appurtenances of a great school. The town seems 
quiet, and an academic atmosphere seems to pervade the place, which 
certainly is conducive to uninterrupted study and deep thought. 



FRANKFURT-ON-THE-MAIN. 

When we arrived at the railroad station at Heidelberg to 
resume our journey, we found our train had been abandoned and a 
new one awaited us. This was our first stop over the Swiss frontier. 
The roads in Germany are owned by the government. All our 
belongings, wraps, handbags, umbrellas, as well as heavy baggage 
had been transferred, but we were assured of their safety. Mean- 
while our conductors and the local authorities were in noisy discus- 
sion'of the change. Our representatives were protesting with all 
the vehement gesticulations of excited Italians, and the other party 
stood like statuary, but rolled out German gutturals like muttering 
thunder. I suppose it was all satisfactorily explained, for "grim 
visaged war smoothed it? wrinkled front," and we were put aboard 
as though nothing unusual had occurred. 

On the train we discovered all our belongings heaped promis. 
cuously in the baggage car. The entire time to Frankfurt was 
occupied in assorting and distributing. A young lady in my com- 
partment very kindly looked after my interest. Nothing was 
missing eventually, but the name pin from my jacket, — dropped in 
the handling I presume, — and the "fifty dollar bonnet" of the 
Western suffragette; and "how could she visit friends in Germany 
without that bonnet!" 

The search and wail were kept up all the way to Frankfurt, 
when it suddenly ceased. That the bonnet was found was only an 
inference, for none of us ever saw it before the loss or after. 

From the car windows we saw on every hand evidences of a 
growing industry in fields of the sugar beets, but the vine still held 
possession of the hillsides. As we neared the city, we became aware 
of an industrial life that reminded us of our home towns. The tall 
stacks of foundries and factories, the murky atmosphere, smoke- 
stained buildings and the stir of things doing, interested the men of 
our party. "This place is alive," they said, "there's business here 
as we know business." 

To reach our hotel we crossed the river which is here from 350 
to 400 feet wide. The two parts of the city are connected by six 
stone bridges. Charlemagne founded the city, and built one of 
\\w*e bridges. It still remains in fine condition, a monument to the 
wisdom and skill of men who took time and care to build a perma- 



nency. The massive piers with strong buttresses are almost black 
with age, but show no other sign of the passing of time. Not many 
years ago a fine statue of Charlemagne was erected on this bridge. 

The hotel here seemed below the status of our previous enter- 
tainment. Mine host and his assistants, in their anxiety for our 
comfort, seemed to be striving to make the best of the situation. 
The food was abundant, but not so well served; the rooms were 
comfortable, but shabby. A general dissatisfaction was soon 
apparent, and our lady of the fifty dollar decoration descended to 
the office in open mutiny. She demanded a better room, and 
refused to touch the dinner. Some changes were made with profuse 
apologies, and we settled for the night. Upon referring to our 
itinerary we discovered that this night and a day in Frankfurt was 
a gratuity which our general transportation committee had been 
able to give us; and as it was an afterthought, had done their best 
in the way of entertainment. When we realized what we would 
have missed by merely passing through the city, we were grateful 
for the change. 

Frankfurt is not only a hive of industry, but it is full of 
historic interest. We engaged large sight-seeing carriages, and my 
party was exceptionally fortunate in having a guide who spoke good 
English, knew the city thoroughly, and was anxious that we should 
see and appreciate it. He gave the population at 400,000, with 
400 millionaires. 

THE OLD CITY. 

In the newer sections of the city the streets are wide and hand- 
some, the buildings of modern designs; but in the old town are seen 
the heavily timbered fronts, with each story projecting a little over 
the lower on up to the high peaked gables, thus apparently adding 
floor space to each story. All are kept in good condition and 
occupied. There are no ruins to be shown. The streets are narrow 
and crooked, but kept in fine condition and perfectly clean. Every 
turn reveals something of special interest. 

Every one knows of the Frankfurt sausage factories. A dog 
flew at our carriage and barked savagely. A gruff old gentleman 
who had seemed to notice nothing before, spoke now: "Shut up ! 
don't you know they make sausage here?" The old town has long 



been famous for its cider. The places where it is sold are indicated 
by a green wreath hung over the door. 

The old wall around the town has been cleared away and a 
beautifully shaded boulevard made in its place. A remnant of the 
old wall with a gateway and tower above remains. The old market 
is very interesting. We visited the Kaiser Dom, a cathedral begun 
in the ninth century, where fifteen Electors, also Wilhelmn I, were 
crowned. We saw the throne room, the lockers where the ancient 
dignitaries kept their robes of office, the arms and tombs of patri- 
cians, and the ancient archives. Here, too, we saw the original 
"Christ from the Cross" by Van Dyck. 

We were 1 taken to the church where Luther preached his first 
sermon, and shown the house which was his stopping place. "Now" 
said the guide, "I'll show you the Ghetto." Of course we thought 
of the squalid, remote-hiding place of the despised medieval money- 
lender, and showed our surprise, to his evident amusement, when 
we turned into a narrow but well-kept street, lined with . beautiful 
homes with every evidence of respectability and modern comfort. 
The Jewish Quarter is an ornament to the city. Here we saw the 
home of the elder Rothschild, and the building in which he opened 
his first bank. 

The whole city abounds in fine squares ornamented with foun- 
tains, statuary and monuments, commemorative of men and events 
that have made Germany great. A room in a hotel was pointed 
out as the place where the treaty of peace was finally completed 
after the Franco-Prussian war. 

The home of Goethe is in the centre of a solid block. It is of 
the middle-age type, four stories high, and is open to the public. 
It is furnished, as the family used it. We entered a central hall 
directly from the pavement. The ceilings are low, the rooms of 
medium size, and the stairways are broad and easy. The parlors 
and library are furnished in handsome but well-worn furniture. On 
the walls are family portraits, some of them being old time silhouttes 
in black and white. In addition there are oil paintings and mirrors 
of great value. The kitchen is complete in its old time appurten- 
ances, and the dining-room is equally quaint and suggestive of 
German hospitality. Taken altogether, aside from its historical 
interest, this house is a faithful representation of the home life of a 
nobleman of the 18th century. We were shown a window in the 



projecting corner of a room in the third story, with which a bit of 
sentiment is connected The story goes that Father Goethe, 
indiscreetly fell in love with a pretty girl neighbor, and had this 
window cut that he might see her as she passed below. Where 
Frau Goethe or their famous son was, while the old man gazed 
upon the unconscious object of his affections, remains a secret. 

At the station a crowd of children gathered to see the 
"foreigners." Little boys in long pantaloons, tight jackets and caps 
with visors, quaint little blue-eyed girls with fair rosy faces and 
long flaxen braids; bareheaded except for an occasional close cap 
that covered the ears. Some of them knitting as they gazed. Shy 
and quiet, but not at all afraid, they seemed pleased at the attention 
our German speaking folks gave them; but could not be coaxed to 
sing for us while we waited for our train. 

Although we traveled through the summer, I can't recall 
seeing a bare-footed child on the Continent. 



WIESBADEN. 

We left Frankfurt with enlarged ideas of what this old 
German city means to the world of literature, finance and industrial 
art. It boasts of Gutenberg in the development of the art of 
printing; of Schiller and Goethe in the realm of literature; of Den- 
Decker in his wonderful Ariadne in marble; of the Rothschilds who 
finance nations. Here, as elsewhere, we followed the trail of 
Napoleon as he swept over the Continent. The statue of Bismarck 
Buggests the thought that if the iron hand of the Great Chancellor 
could have been laid upon him, his dream of universal empire would 
have met a final awakening before it reached the German frontier. 

The surrounding country gives evidence of great productive- 
ness. Fine cattle grazed in the fields, and we saw exposed for sale 
strawberries as large as apricots. The Falls of the Rhine are a 
series of cascades, resembling, somewhat, Tigart Valley Falls of 
West Virginia, when seen during a flood. Quite picturesque, but 
to those who have seen Niagara, Yosemite and the Yellowstone 
Falls, thej seem rather tame. 

We arrived at Wiesbaden late in the afternoon, and were 
driven to our hotel through the most beautiful street of our tour. 
Such a driveway could only be maintained in a health resort, for the 
traffic of a business city would make it impossible. A wide asphalt 
roadway is bordered with paved side walks, and grass like velvet. 
, At regular intervals are shaded trees of uniform size, under which 
are placed comfortable seats At the root of each tree a rambler 
rose is planted, and the long branches are trained from tree to tree 
in most graceful festoons. At the time of our visit these festoons 
were in full bloom. Handsomely dressed ladies were seated in the 
shade, and pretty children played about them in the grass. The 
etlect can more easily be imagined than described. 

We stopped at the Palast Hotel, quite near the hot baths for 
which this town is famous. Here we found every comfort, and 
every luxury that modern hotel life can supply. After dinner we 
visited a near-by public garden -not a beer garden by any means — 
where we met many of our fellow pilgrims. We spent a delightful 
evening in this scene of enchantment, exchanging experiences and 
impressions of travel as we watched the gay passing throng, the 
play of the fountains in their gorgeous electric illumination, while 



above, beneath, and all-pervading were the strains of such music as 
only Germany can produce. 

THE RHINE. 

Next morning after an early visit to the baths, we were taken 
by trolley through the town, and then five miles out to the river 
where a steamboat awaited us for the journey down the Rhine. 
Our experienced travelers passed a word of caution here, in regard 
to the pilfering tendencies of the souvenir peddlers, who ply their 
trade on the Rhine boats, — the dying embers, possibly, of the old 
time piracy on the river, for we met it no where else in Europe. 

The river itself, aside from its scenic attractions and historical 
associations, is of interest as the great artery through which flows 
the commerce of the north and south. It is alive with traffic. 
Steam tugs towing great heavily loaded scows and barges, were 
always in sight. Here we saw the first coal and lumber in transit. 
A railroad with its flying trains follows the shore line on each side 
as on our Hudson. Both banks are protected the entire way with 
heavy masonry. 

The first place of note to be reached is the busy town of 
Mavence, or Mainz. Here the name of Gutenberg, the discoverer 
of the art of printing, is held in respect almost bordering on rever- 
ence. Above on the vine clad hills, stand the tower and ruins of 
the old castle of Bromserberg. Not far distant on the opposite side 
is seen upon the summit of a high hill, the great "National Monu- 
ment of Germans," which commemorates the unanimous uprising of 
the people in the restoration of the German Empire in 1870-71. 

Then Bingen, "Fair Bingen on the Rhine," came into view. 
The "Bingen" which the art of its neighbor's pride, Gutenberg, has 
made familiar to school boys the world over. It was amusing to 
hear our gray-haired school boys aboard declaim the woes of the 
"soldier that lay dying in Algiers." It seems to be a busy town, 
and for beauty of situation might bring home sickness to its sons 
wherever they stray. 

Just below in a sharp bend of the river, is a small island on 
which stands the ancient Mouse Tower, now used as a signal station. 
The name grew from an old legend. The story goes that in the 
olden time, a crafty Baron who lay in wait here to exact toll from 
passing vessels, forseeing great want through a failure of the crops, 



bought up all the grain and held it at fabulous prices. To escape 
the fury of the starving people, he locked himself and his grain in 
tin's stronghold, but an army of mice invaded the tower, and 
devoured the old man along with his grain. 

That no part of the castellated heights might escape us, we 
vibrated from side to side of the boat; for no turn of the river is 
without its charm. In response to one of the many calls: "Oh, 
look !" "Don't miss this !" and the like, a young lady making 
hurried notes, turned her head for a minute; on glancing back at 
her work she missed her fountain pen. A hurried search was made 
in which all her neighbors joined, but no trace of it could be found. 
Later in the day a young fellow who had been busy on deck, 
announced that he had found a pen on the companion-way. It 
proved to be the missing article, and he demanded a reward equal 
to the price of the pen. Some of our men folks delivered a quiet 
American ultimatum to the fellow, and restored the pen to the 
owner. 

A great castle fully restored, standing high above the river, 
was pointed out as the property of Prince Henry of Prussia. It is 
said to contain a valuable collection of art treasures. The castle 
of Rheinfels, the largest on the Rhine, belongs to the German 
Kmperor. Another standing out boldly on the steep hill side with 
turret, tower and ramparts all complete as in the olden time, is the 
property of a wealthy American. A little town nestles on the 
shore beneath each dominating castle, and each town has its tall 
watch tower. One can easily imagine the sentinel in his lofty 
perch, watching the approaching merchant's craft that must pay 
bountiful toll if it failed to elude his vigilance. 

And the Lorelei famed in story and song. There it stood out 
in the stream, its high rocky front narrowing the channel, and 
causing a sharp bend in the river which made a point of danger 
to old navigators. The legend which inspired Heine and other 
German writers, tells how the beautiful syrens who inhabited this 
hill, came out upon the rock, and combing their beautiful hair 
with golden combs in the sunlight, lured the entranced sailors to 
their death in the treacherous channels below, and thus possessed 
themselves of the wrecked cargo. 

At the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine stands a 
monument to William I. Many of these castles were devasted in 



times of war and are still in ruins. Some of them have passed 
into tho hands of the Society for the Preservation of German 
Castles. Only one, the Marksburg, has been preserved through 
the centuries from the hand of the destroyer. Some have been 
the scenes of fierce fights in the Middle Ages, and their defense arc 
thrilling episodes in history. 

COLOGNE. 

Cologne lies in a fine open country, and is connected by a 
magnificent iron bridge with the town of Deutz on the opposite 
side of the Rhine. It is an old city, having been founded by the 
Romans. It is of the usual German type, well-built, substantial 
and clean. The water front was alive with the bustle and stir of 
traffic, and every variety of river craft was to be seen. 

The two tall spires of the world-renowned Cathedral were the 
first to greet us as we came in sight of the city. Our hotel was in 
its immediate vicinity, and we found the principal objects of interest 
within easy reach. We were up "by times" the next morning, and 
read) r for a tour of inspection. 

The Cathedral occupies a central position and covers a large 
area. On three sides the near-by buildings are too near to allow a 
fair estimate of its immensity and beauty. Only from a plaza on 
the fourth side can one get an uninterrupted perspective; and then 
words fail, we can only look and wonder in silence. It is Germany's 
most imposing structure, and the finest Gothic building in the 
world. It was begun in 1248 and finished in 1880 at a cost of 
$10,000,000. The interior is beyond my powers of description. 
There are massive marble columns, exquisite sculpture and paint- 
ings, magnificent altars with all the glittering paraphernalia 
connected with the service. 

From the cathedral we were taken to the church of St. 
Ursula. This is an old stone building gray with age. Inside the 
room flagged floors and wooden benches spoke of service running 
back through the centuries, to the time when art was young. At 
intervals along the walls are placed huge stone coffins said to 
contain the remains of the martyrs for whose entombment this 
church was built. 

Passing into an annex, we found ourselves in a room devoted 



to those martyrs and a shrine to St. Ursula. The story connected 
with the relics was given us by the priest in charge. 

He spoke excellent English, and told the story in a most 
interesting way. lie was careful to explain that he was giving us 
an ancient tradition which is not always borne out by history or 
modern investigation. Evidently it was to him, as to us, useful 
and interesting only as a revelation of the far away dawn of 
Christianity, when men, groping for the light, saw "men as trees 
walking." 

This is the story he told. An English princess of the long, 
long ago was to be married, and asked that she might be allowed 
iirst to make a pilgrimage to Rome. This was granted and she set 
out upon her journey accompanied by 1100 young women as 
companions. Having successfully performed the sacred duty, they 
returned in safety to the site of this city. Here they were set upon 
by a tribe of Huns and massacred. Years after their bones were 
carefully collected and this church erected for their preservation, 
and to commemorate the lives of the pious princess and her fellow 
martyrs. 

The dome-like ceiling of the room which we were shown is 
entirely covered with small bones arranged in geometrical designs. 
( )n a breast high shelf, somewhat like the top of a wainscot extend- 
ing around the walls, the skulls are displayed. These are gayly 
decorated in gilding and bright colors covering their entire surface. 
They are all of normal size; but the bones on the walls and ceiling 
are those of diminutive women. Possibly only small bones were 
selected. It certainly is a gruesome exhibition. Another version 
of the story given us was, that once upon a time when England was 
threatened with an invasion of the Danes, the women and children 
were sent here for safety, but were destroyed by the Huns. Some 
anatomists who have examined this collection, profess to have found 
the bones of dogs among them. 

We were shown an ancient shrine of rare workmanship, and a 
cracked alabaster box said to be the one broken to annoint the 
Master's feet. It was brought from Nazareth by the crusaders. 
it is in the shape of an ancient vase and is quite large. We had 
been told that this church possessed the handkerchief with which 
Veronica wiped the Master's face on His way to Calvary. One of 
our ladies asked to see it but was told they only had a copy. It 



wasn't shown. The art gallery in Cologne displays the original 
portrait of Queen Louise. 

IN THE STOKES. 

In contradiction of its name, Mark Twain designated this city 
as a place of bad smells. We detected nothing malodorous, and 
saw no cologne factories; but every store we entered displayed 
perfumery, and every salesman seemed to think that was what we 
had come for, regardless of the rigid search at the English custom 
house for continental perfumery. 

Each change of country brought a new monetary system to be 
learned. Before leaving Italy we had become familiar with the 
centime and the lira. The lira — 20 cents nearly — was easily 
managed, but to be asked twenty-five centimes for the merest trifle 
seemed appalling, till we remembered to divide by five, and reached 
the nickel of our comprehension. Journeying north we orossed 
frontiers so frequently that we scarcely learned one currency until 
we passed to another. Banks and leading business places have a 
wholesome regard for the American dollar, but the small trades- 
man rarely knows any coinage but that of his own country. The 
small pieces are most confusing and we learned to carry as little as 
possible over to the next place. The mark — 20 cents — was easily 
handled through Germany and Holland. The franc was seldom 
refused anywhere. In one dry goods store I encountered a sales- 
man who spoke English unusually well, but could only understand 
a few phrases, such as "Do you speak English ?" etc. 

Everywhere we met the finest courtesy. In a street car in 
Zurich, the conductor very politely indicated to my friend that 
her long hat pin must be removed. She smilingly complied, when 
a lady opposite produced from her hand-bag, a hat pin shield 
which she courteously offered. It was thankfully accepted— all 
without a word — just a gracious courtesy which made language 
superfluous. 

We left Cologne by rail. The journey from this point carried 
us away from the hills to a lower level country, with fine cattle 
grazing everywhere. The fields are divided by ditches and canals^ 
and wind- mills are always in sight. Here and there the low 
thatched cottages betoken the life of labor, but not of poverty. 



The farms are as clean as well-kept gardens, and not a fool of 
ground is wasted. As evening drew on, men and women passed 
through the fields carrying milking stools, and with buckets 
suspended from yokes across their shoulders. The cows were 
Bcarcely disturbed in their grazing to be milked. The comfortable 
looking farm houses with their numerous outbuildings, all of stone 
and with red tiled roof's, have a settled come-to-stay appearance 
that bespeak a contented people. 

The week had been a strenuous one: but the excellent 
accommodation provided for us at the Hague promised a good, 
quiet Sunday rest. 



THE HAGUE. 

The very name suggests wide spreading trees, shaded walks 
and drives, and forest parks. It is literally a city in the woods, a 
pleasant change from the open, low country through which we had 
been traveling. Our hotel here bordered a public square on which 
stands the palace of the Queen Mother, the building occupied by 
Napoleon when in power here and several (inc administration 
buildings. Not far away is the church in which the present Queen 
was married. 

Our rooms were large and exquisitely furnished, and the table 
was excellent. Our party seemed to (ill every available space. 
Two of our ladies occupied a private parlor which naturally be- 
came the rallying point for the feminine portion of our section. 
The weather was bright, but so cool that wraps were necessary 
during our stay. We frequently saw ladies in furs on the streels. 

While at breakfast Sunday morning a gentleman came in to 
invite us to an English service in a church near. He proved to be 
a delegate from this country to a Congress of the Association for 
the Suppression of the Opium Traffic, then in session in the city. 
Some of our party went for the day to Leyden, the port from which 
the Pilgrim Fathers sailed for the new world, others to Delft — 
both nearby cities. The majority rested in their rooms. 

A Sabbath quiet seemed to prevail. The church hour is much 
earlier in this country than with us. It filled the streets with 
well-clothed, quietly moving people, singly, in pairs, and in family 
groups, each one carrying a book of service. The afternoon 
brought out what seemed to be a more holiday throng. Young 
men and their sweethearts, evidently husbands and wives, sweet- 
hearts still even when surrounded by their children, for they all 
walked hand in hand. Each young man gave the girl his arm, 
and then protected the clinging hand so tenderly. This seemed to 
be an established custom and no violation of propriety. 

Of course we knew our own party, but in the mixed crowd of 
diners there was no way of determining different nationalities_we 
all looked alike. Lxnguage was no assistance there, for in Europe 
the public is no place for conversation. The low voice does not 
carry beyond the ear to which it is directed. We Americans had 
by this time become unconsciously subdued, an exemplification of 
the influence of environment. 



Monday morning wo started early for the drive over the city. 
Passing' the Zoological Gardens we drove through the great forest- 
like park to the House-in-thc- Woods where the Peace Congress is 
held. This palace, though a royal residence, has a rather unpre- 
tentious appearance from the outside. Those of Germany and 
Holland are more severe in their outlines than elsewhere in Europe. 
This one .is of stone and red brick, and faces a very pretty court- 
yard. Entering from the park the view is unobstructed; the other 
buildings extend from the sides and rear. The royal family occupy 
the upper floors. At that time they were in Haarlem, but were 
expected to spend August here. We were taken through the state 
apartments on the first-floor. These rooms are beautifully decor- 
ated, and contain masterpieces of pictures and statuary. Every 
ornament has a history — the gift of king, queen or nation. 

The room in which the Congress is held was called the Orange 
room, and was originally the ball-room of the palace. It is circular 
in shapo, and the walls arc covered with paintings by Pubens and 
his pupils, symbolical of the life of Prince Henry— a tribute to his 
memory by his wife. The most notable object in this room is the 
Peace Door. That it was constructed long before the agitation 
for universal peace, is an evidence of the kindly heart of the Hol- 
lander It is being opened by two life-size figures, on one side an 
angel representing peace, on the other Hercules representing 
strength. 

The entire furnishing of one room is the production of China's 
highest art — a gift from that nation. The lights in the great 
chandelier are arranged in egg-shell tea cups with the saucers 
inverted as shades. Another room was the gift of Japan. There 
we saw teak wood furniture with wonderful hand carvings, and the 
most exquisite inlays of ivory and mother-of-pearl; screens and 
cabinets the work of a life time. On the walls are seen paintings 
by Japanese artists. We were shown the room in which Queen 
Sophia died. It is kept as it was at the time of her death. The 
bed with its heavy drapery partly drawn, is still in the disarranged 
condition of the death scene, the silk coverlet having been drawn 
up over the pillows. 

The morning drive through the level forest to Schevenigen on 
the North Sea — the Atlantic City of Holland — was most delight- 
ful. We passed through the town first; through a long street 



bordered with the usual trading places found near pleasure resorts. 
Stores of souvenirs, post-cards, stationery. Shops for laces of 
native hand work, Dutch caps and wooden shoes. Laundries, 
bakeries, restaurants, with men in native dress and wooden shots 
smoking long pipes wailing for customers. And beyond, out of 
sight of this homely- every- day life, we came to the sea with its 
great stretch of beach and rolling surf, with its crovvd of pleasure- 
seekers loitering on the sand, filling the queer hooded willow beach 
chairs, and passing in and out of the bath houses. These arc 
small constructions on wheels, with steps leading up to a door in 
front. They are drawn down to the water edge, making the transit 
to the surf shorter and less public than at our sea-side rcroTts. 
The fishwomen in their picturesque dress and wooden shoes, return- 
ing from the boats in the distance witli loaded baskets on their 
heads, added quaintness to the scene. The great hotels and other 
buildings are placed some distance from the water, thus giving 
a wide, comprehensive view, unobstructed by the bathing houses, 
picture galleries, or other ugly catch-penny places that so detract 
from the beauty of American beaches. 

Returning to the city we saw the famous Peace Palace then 
nearing completion. Our guide was careful to remind us of the 
$250,000 Mr. Carnegie had put in it. In the old section we visit- 
ed the old prison famous in the time of the Spanish invasion. 
While waiting on the pavement to be admitted, .our guide said, 
"You are now standing on the spot where in 1G72 John DcWitt, a 
Dutch statesman and patriot, and his brother were murdered." 
This gave me the initial chill. Passing through a heavy, narrow 
door into an entry, we were first taken to the small court around 
which the prison is built. In an angle of the wall is a small brick 
one and a half story building of two rooms. In the lower room 
the condemned man was put for his last day and given his last 
meal. The room above has but one outside opening, a window in 
the gable about six feet from the opposite wall where a door and 
window open into the kitchen. Here those sentenced to death by 
starvation were left to die with the scent of food cooking always 
in their nostrils. 

Inside the prison the cells are reached by narrow, steep stone 
stairs, and along low narrow passages lighted by high barred win- 
dows. The doors are of massive oak with great iron hinges and 



bolts. In one room larger and lighter than the rest, is a collection 
of t he arms and utensils of that aire. Here too, are preserved the 
instruments of torture that were used to bring the noncompromis- 
ing to terms. In a huge stone fire-place hang the branding irons. 
In the centre of the roDm are pilccl the rack with its horrible 
equipment, and the stocks. On the walls arc displayed the pincers, 
thumbscrews, and the melancholy writings of the condemned. 
Every tiling is old, worn and original. Nothing is a replica. On 
the top floor is one room the fbor of which is six hundred years 
old. It is worn in hollows and ruts and worm-eaten, but is still 
strong and serviceable. I passed out into the light and cheer of 
present day conditions, wondering if civilized man could ever re- 
lapse into such cruel barbarity. 

AMSTERDAM AND ISLE OF MARKEN. 

As we journeyed through the region of bogs and marshes which 
lie too low for natural drainage, we were interested in observing 
the method of reclaiming the land. Land protected by dikes is 
lined with ditches from which the water is pumped into canals by 
windmills. The railroads are built on these dikes. We saw many 
varieties of water-fowl. Domestic ducks and lccsc were plentiful, 
and an occasional blue heron came into view. Here and there a 
stork stood on one leg in the conventional manner. We had be- 
come accustomed to the sight of their huge nests on house tops. 

Some of the windmills are so large that the ground floors are 
occupied by families. Our train obligingly stopped to give our 
camera fiends a snap at the most picturesque. Fine cattle were 
always in sight. All kinds of vegetables are grown, not only for 
home consumption, but for the extensive export trade in seeds. 

Our hotel at Haarlem was very comfortable, but the effort to 
accommodate such a large party seemed a tax upon its facilities. 
My chum and I were ensconced in the winter dining-room. It was 
a large room with lofty ceiling, elaborately furnished and decorat- 
ed in true Dutch style. The great tiled fireplace supported a 
mantle with quaint Delft ornaments. The massive buffet extend- 
ing almost to the ceiling, the high paneled wainscot with its plate 
rail, were all of old oak in beautiful carving. Every pottery on 
the Continent seemed to have contributed to the display of china, 
i lie waxed parquetry floor displayed a handsome drugget and rugs. 



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A glance around revealed a bed in each corner, and on the big din- 
ing table four separate groups of toilet accessories. The two 
Australian ladies who were to share this magnificent incongruity 
with us, took the situation philosophically; my friend was indig- 
nant, but I enjoyed the new experience and was only sorry I had 
so little time for investigation. 

A crowd of bright-faced but curious youngsters filled the side- 
walk before the entrance to the hotel to see the "menagerie;" but 
after a little talk with our German speaking folks they quietly 
scattered. Haarlem is just like other busy, clean, well-built Dutch 
cities. Our ladies visited the shops in search of the queer white- 
winged caps the women wear. 

Next morning we went to the Isle of Marken by the way of 
Amsterdam, where we were transferred from the train to a boat. 
The scone in the harbor is full of interest. Vessels of all descrip- 
tions are to be seen. We landed a few miles out, where we crossed 
quite a peninsula by trolley, passing through quaint old towns to 
the most ancient of all, Monnikendam on the Zuyder Zee. Here 
we took steamer over this beautiful arm of the German Ocean. 
The day was fine, and the little islands dotted the horizon like 
emeralds. 

Marken has a population of about 1200. The men are deep 
sea fishermen. The women and the old men do the farming; they 
were getting in the hay at the time of our visit. As we neared the 
wharf the women engaged in rinsing their wash in the sea never 
paused in their work; but some men and little children from the 
village were posed on the bank to see the landing. They seemed 
to understand that they were part of the show, were accustomed to 
it, and prized the privilege. 

These people wear the same dress and lead the same life that 
their ancestors did fourteen hundred years ago, — and there is 
money in it to them now. Marken is a show place that attracts 
hundreds of tourists every year. The women and children dress 
alike. When the boys reach seven years they assume the dress of 
the men. There are no children's styles. The dress consists of a 
dark woolen skirt gathered in very full at the waist, and reaching 
halfway from the knee to the foot; above this is a close fitted round 
waist of gay material with a bright kerchief about the neck A 
flowered cap fits the head, closely tied under the chin, and before 



each ear a long curl hangs clown. The children's hair floats over 
their shoulders from beneath the cap. To distinguish the boy, a 
round patch about the size of a silver dollar is sewed to the crown 
of his cap. Every woman and girl who was not otherwise employ. 
ed was knitting woolen stockings. These with wooden shoes cover 
their feet even in summer. The men aro topped with flat caps with 
visors. They wear short tight jackets, and trousers so wide they 
are gathered in at the waist like the women's skirts. 

We were shown their homes with the quaint box beds and fat 
pillows, their old Dutch dishes and cooking utensils, while in and 
out and all around us, rosy flaxen haired girls drove a thriving 
trade in post cards, wooden shoes in miniature, and Dutch place- 
oards. I suspect they would sell anything not an everyday neces- 
sity, except their wedding clothes which are handed down from 
generation to generation. Fashion never changes here. 

Returning, we wandered over the queer old town of Monni- 
kendam, — visited a kindergarten in charge of two Sisters who re- 
ceived us cordially and had the children sing for us. Then we 
entered the town church, where tablets in the floor indicate the 
graves of their notable dead The tower and belfry of the oldest 
church are all that remain. This bell still proclaims the hour, and 
a bugler blows a horn on a little balcony below; while a horseman 
prances round followed by a footman. This is the original ap- 
paratus, — bell, figures, cloc;k-work and all, —that was placed here 
when the church was built in the 14th century. 

In Amsterdam we visited the public buildings. In the art 
galleries we saw the masterpieces of Dutch art, notably those of 
Rembrandt. His "Night Watch" and "Anatomical Lesson" once 
seen can never be forgotten. Our visit to the diamond cutters was 
of peculiar interest. The building is solid, grimy and prison-like. 
The doors and passages narrow, and the windows below are high 
and barred. We were taken, a half dozen at a time, to the upper 
floor, where the processes were carefully explained and demonstrat- 
ed. We were shown replicas of all the famous diamonds in the 
world the Koh-i-noor, the Cullinan, the Blue Diamond, etc. 

Amsterdam, like Venice, is built upon islands reinforced by 
piles. But unlike Venice, its streets are regular and wide with 
canals through the centre; on each side are ample drives and wide 



tree-lined side-walks. These canals greatly facilitate the enormous 
foreign traffic for which the city is noted. 

The window mirrors are unique to say the least. They are 
sometimes set in the wide outside frame, and sometimes project be- 
yond the window from an iron bracket attached to the frame in 
such a way as to give the person inside a view of the passerby. 

A second hand market extends square after square. Here is 
exposed for sale everything that humanity needs. It is piled in 
heaps, stretched out in windrows in the open, and in every stage of 
decline from the barely used to refuse for the scrap pile. After a 
most interesting drive over the city we returned by train to Haar- 
lem for the night. 

BELGIUM. 

From Holland we passed into this hive of industry. The soil 
here we were told is not favorable to agriculture; but necessity is a 
wonderful spur, and the farmers are said to be the best in Europe. 
The wealth of Belgium lies in its minerals, of which iron and coal 
are the most important. It is the source of fuel supply for France, 
and we saw great barges of it on the Rhine. The products of 
Belgian factories are confessedly superior. 

Brussels, where we made headquarters, has a population of 
850,000. It is a gay city, sometimes called another Paris. It is 
built for beauty, and is wonderfully decorated with handsome 
squares, public gardens, fountains, arches and statuary. To the 
casual observer there seems to be nothing distinctively Belgian. 
Their public buildings are magni6cent — less austere than in 
Holland — but the life we saw about us seemed to be a commingling 
of Dutch and French. Dutch solidity modifies French frivolity. 
Germany makes haste slowly. Belgium is busy and swift; French 
is spoken, French money circulates. 

Our first afternooD here was so showery that I declined joining 
an auto party to Waterloo which lies ten miles south, and went 
with others to see the wonderful laces and other textile attractions 
of the jity Here I had trouble in exchanging American money 
for French. On one busy street we found ourselves part of a great 
crowd which filled the side-walks for squares. We were told that 
this was the day for the annual pageant in honor of Motherhood, 
Industry and Temperance. A custom which has been observed in 
the same manner for centuries. 



The parade, four deep, was headed by a fine band in gay uni- 
form. This was followed by a float bearing a group of statuary, a 
mother and her children, with a large mounted escort in medieval 
costumes, (their hair cut square across the shoulder), with lance at 
rest, and the prancing horses gay with nodding plumes, gilded 
mountings and with gold fringed covers. Then came a procession 
of boys in white uniform representing the youth of the land. Each 
carried a tall pole with garlands and flying ribbons. A battalion 
of cavalry came next. Industry was represented by a body of 
young men also in while, carrying red shields displaying emblems 
of the guilds. A float carried a beautiful girl in white drapery — 
the emblem of Temperance. Each division of the parade had its 
medieval and military escort, its music and its long line of footmen, 
all marching with military precision. To western eyes it was a 
revelation of far away times — a sight that compensated for the loss 
of the visit to the battlefield. King Albert and Queen Elizabeth 
reviewed the parade from a hotel nearby. 

The site of the original town is a level plain. Here are 
many old buildings of historic interest, kept in repair and still in 
use. Brussels tolerates no ruins. The newer and more fashionable 
section of the city is oa the easy slope of a hillside. Here are the 
king's palace, the administration buildings and the diplomatic resi- 
dences. The streets are wide, the grounds spacious, and beautifully 
planned and ornamented. 

We were driven through fine streets lined with elegant homes, 
that five years ago were marshes. They boast of a growth that 
averages 3000 new buildings a year. If I had been told this of 
some of our frontier towns, I would have accepted it with due 
allowance, as a manifestation of our western exuberance. I give it 
here as it was given to me. There is, however, abundant evidence 
of marvelous growth. 

The Arch of Triumph commemorating the independence of 
Belgium, is one of the ornaments of the city. The great palace 
built by Leopold II, which he presented to the government just 
before his death, is a masterpiece of modem architecture, but very 
suggestive of tlie blood money drawn from the Congo Free State. 

The Court of Justice is not only one of the finest in Europe, 
but it is the largest compact building. The entire building as it 
now stands is on the original plan, built to completion under the 



personal supervision of one architect, with no afterthought of an- 
nexes. It is the great work of one man's life, and so absorbed he 
became in its development, that when it stood complete he was 
taken to a sanitarium, a nervous wreck. The most pathetic feature 
of the story is that upon his recovery the memory of his accom- 
plishment was entirely gone from him. He did not remember the 
building, or that lie had ever had anything to do with it. 

Passing the carriages of a bridal party, our guide took us to 
the City Hall to sec the civil ceremony. Certain days in the week 
are reserved here for marriages of royalty and nobility. Other 
classes are never married on these days.' This happened to be an 
upper class day. We stood in line in the long ante-room before the 
open door to the court, and saw the signing of papers, registration, 
etc. Then the procession marched by us to the stair leading to the 
courtyard. First came the ushers and the groom, then the bride 
and her father, following were young ladies and matrons and 
elderly men. The men were in court dress, some in military full 
dress; the ladies looked just as our well-to-do look upon such occa- 
sions. The bride was a beautiful young woman, tall and stately. 
She wore white satin made plain with a long train, and her veil was 
exquisite. The groom was not to be distinguished from his friends. 
The bride never takes his arm until after the ceremony at the 
church. A maid in plain dark clothes hurried forward to carry 
the bride's train to the carriage. 

Wc were shown the House of Parliament. Adjoining,, on 
either side, arc residences belonging to the government. The 
senators, who are elected every four years, arc required to live in 
th.'se houses. Passing through the city wc saw dogs in harness 
under the carts instead of in the shafts as in Switzerland. Every- 
where we saw the wonderful horses of which Belgium is so proud. 
We were shown the horse market as one of the sights of the city. 
The annual exhibits here bring buyers from all Europe. 

Coming south from Belgium there were mines and iron works, 
smoke and grime everywhere, as in our own industrial centres, 
Belgium pensions its old miners, and well it may, for they are 
important factors in its growth and increase of wealth. 



FRANCE. 

All the way down to Paris, through the great suburb to the 
very limit of the city proper, there was evidence on every side of 
vast manufacturing interests. 

After a long drive through the city we turned rather abruptly 
into a narrow street where we came to a halt before a quaint old 
building with small barred windows high up on the ground floor, 
a steep roof five stories up with narrow dormer windows. When 
shown to our rooms we passed through a lofty vaulted corridor. 
Many of the rooms to which our party was conducted were on the 
upper floors and there was no elevator. They were small and 
poorly ventilated. Three young ladies were taken to a narrow 
room with sloped ceiling on the top floor, lighted with a dormer 
window. My room was on the second floor, roomy, but unques- 
tionably dingy. The house was built around a court, and the 
dining-room was a part of the loggia closed in with glass. The 
dinner was elaborate — on the menu; but true French thrift was 
shown in the portions served. Something was wrong, and nobody 
unpacked. A continental breakfast was served — coffee, rolls and 
butter— instead of the stipulated American breakfast. Outside 
inquiry disclosed the fact that this was an old monastery turned 
into a dollar-a-day hotel, low grade, second class. We went from 
the breakfast directly to the carriages for the day's drive. 

At noon our gentlemen directed the guide to leave us at the 
Tourist's Agency Building, and an interesting time followed in the 
office of the officials who had made our Paris hotel arrangement. 
Our contract had been violated, and somebody on the ground was 
grafting. While this was going on, I crossed the square to a 
pretty tea-room for lunch. When they charged me one franc— 20 
cents -for a glass of milk, I understood why French stocking legs 
could so readily disgorge that heavy indemnity after the war with 
Germany. 

When we drove up to our hotel that evening about six o'clock, 
the carriage doors were not opened, nobody dismounted, and we 
wondered what was to follow, but when the porters came dumping 
our luggage into the carriages we knew a change was to be made. 
Down into the heart of the city we went, through the life and stir 
of a busy people; turning a corner at the Madeleine we were un- 
loaded at a hotel just beyond and within easy reach of almost 



everything desirable. We were made perfectly comfortable, and 
felt that now we were in Paris. 

On the first day we visited the few relics of the olden time; for 
Paris retains only those of special interest. The Notre Dame is 
known the world over. The church of the Crown of Thorns is of 
peculiar interest because of its quaint style, and because of the 
tradition that the original Crown of Thorns is here preserved. 
The chief attractions of Paris are connected with the latter day 
history. The beauty of its architecture and its streets exceeds any- 
thing we had ssen, and appeals to all of the artistic in one's nature. 
But every arch has a history, every plaza is a commemoration, every 
fountain marks a French triumph and every statue tells in some 
way of the glory of France. 

We visited the Court of Justice with its prison beneath, the 
place where Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette, were 
tried and condemned; saw the prison gate through which she was 
led to the place of execution, and looked upon the spot where the 
guillotine stood. The place where the raging mob swayed and rent 
the air with howling execrations, is now one of the beauty spots of 
the earth. On the opposite side of the Place de la Concorde is the 
Elysee, the official residence of the President of the Republic, — 
once the private residence of the Napoleons. 

We passed through the great Arch of Triumph, the largest in 
the world, down the Champs Elysees with its beautiful vistas, 
crossed and re-crossed the Seine to see its most famous bridges; 
here the guide called our attention to the high water marks of the 
recent great flood. 

Contrary to preconceived impressions, the Latin Quarter is a 
very attractive part of the city. It was the home of royalty in 
earlier days; now it is the seat of their greatest institutions of 
learning. Here is the Sorbonne, that famous Parisian School of 
Protestant Theology; here are schools of art, of technology, of medi- 
cine and law. The Louvre and Luxemburg, where the unbridled 
luxury of kings and their lordly retinues bred discontent among the 
masses, and made the revolution possible, are now great centres of 
art. To walk the galleries of the Louvre and see all of its treas- 
ures one must cover seven miles. 

Among the leading objects shown us here was the place from 



which the Mona Lisa was stolen. The spice it occupied is quite 
small, not more than 18x24 inches. 

Our guide was careful to explain that the real Latin Quarter 
and that known abroad arc quite different. How much of strain 
and stress, and how much of unconventional life goes on behind 
those walls, we could only guess. None of it was apparent in these 
wide, beautifully shaded streets with no confusion or bustle of trade, 
nor in the people moving about. A quiet scholastic atmosphere 
pervaded the place. 

The Madeleine must be seen to be appreciated. The exterior 
differs materially from other great churches, but the interior re- 
veals the same wonderful altars and rich adornment we had seen 
elsewhere. We were told that the form of service here is the 
highest in the world. 

The Hotel des Invalids— Soldiers' Home — was founded in 
1G70. This being a time of peace for France, it has but eleven 
inmates. It has an interesting collection of military paintings, old 
armor and arms. The chapel is adorned with old battle flags. 
Napoleon, dying at St. Helena, asked lo be laid to rest here among 
his old comrades. His magnificent tomb adjoins the chapel, just 
beyond is a room for the interment of the Bonaparte family. 

The massive sarcophagus of the dead warrior is placed in a 
depression in the centre of the room, and we saw it from the level 
of the floor. As I looked down upon it in its gorgeous entomb- 
ment, I thought of an unpretentious resting place among the trees 
on a far-away hillside, where rests our heroic dead — Washington. 
"The world passeth away and the lusts thereof— but he that doeth 
the will of God abideth forever." 

ON THE ROYAL ROAD. 

Early one morning we drove out the Champ de Elysees to the 
Bois de Boulogne, an immense heavily timbered park, and were 
shown its points of special attraction. Among these is a palace set 
back among the trees, built in one month by Louis XVI for Marie 
Antoinette. Some distance from the roadway are the ruins of St. 
Cloud— the only ruins we were shown in Paris; the Bastile and 
Tuileries have disappeared entirely. We passed Longchamps, the 
famous race course. 

Paris is situated in a valley surrounded by hills. One of 



these begins at the outer limit of the park, and as we ascended the 
rising ground we passed through the thriving town of Bolognc— a 
centre of automobile building. This royal road to the city of 
Versailles is lined with country seats and busy villages. The hist 
long hill brought us to the summit where we rested the horses 
among curio dealers who seemed to consider us their lawful prey. 
From this point our route lay through a pretty rolling country of 
grain fields and market gardens. We passed a "Home for Dis- 
abled Ironworkers," founded and maintained bj- a wealthy iron- 
master of Paris. Clean, contented looking old men lounged in the 
shade and pottered about the fine grounds. 

VERSAILLES. 

This city of 00,000 is an administration town. The elections 
are held here. It is a home of the rich, and of the people neces- 
sary to its maintenance. The original town was partly torn down 
to make room for homes for the court. 

Entering the woods of the great park, we first visited the 
Petit Trianon, built by Louis XV, and afterward the favorite 
abode of Marie Antoinette. Many traces remain of the unfortun- 
ate queen. Some of the original furniture is still in the rooms she 
occupied; the other pieces are reproductions. Her jewel case is 
still in its place in her bedroom. Everywhere are pictures, statuary 
and ornamental pieces of priceless value. The Gobelin tapestries 
are especially interesting. The making of these is controlled by 
the government, and they can only be obtained by official permit. 

In the carriage house we saw the various conveyances used by 
royalty, from the sedan chair and sledges of remote ages, to the gor- 
geous gilded carriages of Napoleon III and Eugenic. Many of 
them were built for a special occasion — a marriage, a christening, 
or a coronation — and never used afterward. Around the walls in 
glass cases hang the saddles, bridles and glittering harness of the 
most luxuriously extravagant period since the fall of the Roman 
Empire. Ln a cluster of trees not far away stands the little cot- 
tage where Marie Antoinette and her ladies amused themselves as 
dairymaids. 

A drive through the park brought us to the city and the 
Grand Trianon. This palace was built by Louis XIV for Madame 
Main tenon, and was used afterward by successive sovereigns as a 



county residence. It is built of hewn stone and extends along the 
sides and across the upper end of a large stone-paved rectangular 
court. Approached on the lower side through the court, it has the 
appearance of a military barrack. The central building across the 
elevation is adorned with stone balconies, carvings and other 
ornamentation. 

Passing through the ground floor of this part of the palace wc 
came out upon a wide terrace. Here the most conspicuous object 
is a massive stone-rimmed fountain with mythological statuary. A 
wide stone stair-way leads down to the grounds below— the wonder- 
ful garden of Versailles, which extends as far as the eye can reach, 
a panorama of bewildering vistas. Here are magnificent trees, 
beautifully shaded drives and walks, artificial lakes, elaborate 
fountains in which marble nymphs disport, groups of statuary, — a 
veritable fairy land. 

LOUIS XIV. 

This wonderful creation absorbed millions of the public money. 
The working class was compelled to give without remuneration, 
certain days of the week to its construction, and all soldiers not in 
the field were employed upon it. 

The best that money could buy or art produce was used in 
furnishing this palace. During the Revolution the most of it was 
sold and the gold minted. After the restoration some of the furni- 
ture was recovered and others duplicated,— gilding being substitut- 
ed for gold — but the new pieces were almost as expensive as the 
original. Everything is now the property of the Republic and is 
open to the public. 

Louis XIV came to the throne a child, and reigned seventy- 
two years, so long that he finally proclaimed himself immortal. 
He was probably the vainest man that ever ruled a nation. He 
was vain of his power, of his possessions, of his long life; but vainest 
of all of his personal appearance. It was not pride, for that implied 
a degree of dignity; it was a silly, childish vanity that increased 
with his years. In every room in that great palace this king is 
portrayed in painting or marble in some striking costume or pose. 
He was very proud of his flowing curly locks. As time began to 
change them he wore wigs. He had wigs of all colors and styles — 
ninety in all — and changed them as often as five times a day. In 



one room his portrait in has relief is adorned with one of the origi- 
nal wigs — light-yellow hair mixed with grey. 

We entered the bedroom of Louis XVI from which he was 
called that fearful day when the mob from Paris filled the court 
below, and demanded that the royal family return to the city and 
care for the starving people. We saw the balcony from which he 
made the promise, and the nearby window in which the queen ap- 
peared with the dauphin to appease the furious outbreak. 

Their criminal indifference to the needs of the nation brought 
the royal pair back to the selfish luxurious life of the Trianon, and 
led to the storming of thepil.ice We passed up the -'Queen's 
Stairway" leading to her private apartment, where, in beating back 
the mob to cover her flight, the brave Swiss guards lost their lives. 
Just beyond is her bedroom from which the escape was made down 
a private stairway, the door of which is so concealed that it seems 
a part of the wall. 

Napoleon lived here with Josephine. Their rooms are almost 
as they left them; they still contain some personal belongings of 
the royal pair. When Queen Victoria visited this palace after the 
divorce, she was shown to Josephine's bedroom. "This," she said, 
"is too fine for me." 

The Hall of Mirrors is an immense salon richly adorned, the 
floor is of polished marble. Here Napoleon slipped and fell when 
dancing with Queen Victoria. One entire side is lined with mir- 
rors, and the opposite side is of glass, giving a view over the terrace 
below of the wonderful garden beyond. 

BACK TO PARIS. 

We lunched in Versailles, and for the first time on the conti- 
nent, were served with uncooked tomatoes, cucumbers and celery. 
We returned to Paris through Sevres, the town of the great china 
potteries, and other interesting sections We passed ancient forti- 
fications, saw remains of the old city wall and drove through the 
old section of the city, reaching our hotel after a drive of thirty 
miles so full of interest, that mind and body were tired out in the 
effort to grasp it all. 

Report of wonderful bargains in gloves, however, sent two of 
us scurrying down the shopping district before the closing of the 



stores, only to discover that prices had reached American heights, 
and we turned wearily homeward. 

We looked in vain for exaggerated dress among the French 
women. They are well, hut modestly dressed. The trimming is 
rather more elaborate than here, and the material generally better; 
but the extremes we sec in our inland towns, and read of in 
Paris, are not encountered there except on the streets after night- 
fall. 

SUNDAY IN PARIS. 

The day was perfect, not unlike our early June, although we 
were in the closing days of July. We joined a party who were 
making an early start to have time for the service at the Madeliene, 
which we would pass on our way to the English service at the 
Wesleyan church not far beyond. At the gateway to this famous 
place of worship we passed a line of peddlers of postcards, souvenirs, 
curios and periodicals, and a motley crowd of haggard beggars. 

Climbing the wide marble steps to the portico, we passed be- 
tween the great Corinthian columns into the. vestibule, and stood 
within the entrance of the church proper. At an altar nearby a 
clergyman was conducting the service; his glittering mitre and 
magnificent sacerdotal robes in perfect keeping with the gorgeous 
surroundings. Here and there groups sat or knelt devoutly. A 
thin line of worshippers passed in to their scats, bowed a short time 
reverently, then passed out as quietly as they came. A spirit of 
quiet devotion prevailed, in strong contrast to the un-Sabbathlike 
scene without. 

A few squares beyond we entered the English Wesleyan 
church. It is a plain but substantial building in the middle of a 
block. The audience room on the second floor is comfortable and 
seats about three hundred. The service was conducted by the pas- 
tor, a fine specimen of English Methodism. The only unfamiliar 
feature was the gown he wore in the pulpit. The sermon was 
excellent and was made unusually impressive bv a perfect delivery, 
and the fine personality of the speaker. At its close he gave a 
welcome to the strangers present, and a brief talk on the condition 
of the church. Among other things he spoke of the heavy tax 
required by the government —a tax equal to the average salary our 
ministers receive. No direct appeal was made for help, but his 
statement had its effect when the usual collection was taken. After 



the service we were introduced to the minister and found him a 
most affable gentleman. 

THE BRITISH CHANNEL. 

Those of us who were booked to return to Boston on the 
Bohemian from Liverpool, were privileged to take a night boat 
from Havre to Southampton, thereby gaining an additional day in 
London. This is a long crossing but it meant a night's sleep with 
probable escape from sea-sickness. Those who would visit Scotland 
after London, were to take a train the following morning for 
Dieppe and make a shorter crossing in a rougher sea. I joined the 
night party, leaving Paris about 8:30. About twenty-five miles 
out our train stopped in open country. Investigation proved that 
we were behind a freight wreck. The waiting was long and tedious, 
and visions of sleep on the boat and the extra day in London grew 
dim. We were assured, however, that the steamer always waited 
for the night train. 

Many of the native passengers began to appear on the outside, 
and that suggested to some of our folks that the outside might be 
interesting and they joined the promenade. From my window I 
observed the French fashion of beguiling the idle hours in the 
moonlight, and soon noticed the reappearance in the train of our 
American friends. The flirtations outside within my range of 
vision were sufficient explanation. 

After a long tiresome waiting another train pulled in beside 
ours, we were to be transferred. The doors to European cars being 
in the side and opening into each compartment, passing from one 
train to another is not difficult. The doors of each train were 
opened and we stepped across the narrow space between into the 
opposite cars. 

Chance brought our group of five into a compartment designed 
for eight, which already held two, but two of our ladies required 
space for three. By the time we were comfortably settled a French 
couple came in. The man passed through, but the little woman 
dropped down into the s^acc for three, almost in the lap of one of 
our stout friends. Then she began to wiggle and twist to make 
room for herself, to tiie accompaniment of voluble French and 
pointings to the three of us in the opposite seat. Our folks gave 
no sign that they saw or heard. In apparent despair she turned 



her French on her two compatriots. They replied in a perfectly 
courteous manner, but showed no disposition to interfere. The 
gentleman whom we found in the compartment had helped us to get 
settled. He spoke excellent English and explained that this road 
having run down, had been taken under government control so 
recently that delays were still frequent. The wiggling and contor- 
tions for room kept up, and those two fun-loving, keen-witted 
"Yankees" sat in stolid silence, never moving a muscle of face or 
body, and never yielded an inch of the space their aggregated four 
hundred pounds required. The ludicrous situation was a severe 
strain on our politeness until the waspish little woman finally gave 
up the struggle, and made the best of the small space possible for 
her accommodation. 

Our progress was slow and the steps were frequent. We had 
a starlight view of Rouen as we passed through, and regretted that 
our long wait had not occurred there that we might have visited the 
place made famous by the burning of Joan of Arc. The night was 
nearly gone when wo reached Havre, but the waiting carriages 
rushed us through the city to the dock. Iliad prided myself on 
my seamanship, and had no desire to break my record on the 
Channel. The rolling of the vessel as it got underway gave speed 
to feet and fingers and I was soon in bed. 

When I waked next morning the sun w r as shining in my pert 
across a glittering sea as quiet as a mill pond. I hurried into my 
clothes, got my belongings in order, and went up to one of the best 
breakfasts I ever ate; then out on deck to watch for the green 
headlands of old England. My friend and I found a sheltered 
place in which to sit and drink in the exhilarating air. 

It was strange to be possessed with a home-coming feeling, as 
we waited for a land we had never seen to loom up along the 
horizon. To one of English ancestry it was an instinctive primeval 
sense of getting to one's own. And thereat last it lay; at first like 
a long bank of low-lying clouds, then gradually took shape and 
color as we drew nearer. The sea was dotted with fishing smacks 
and schooners, their white sails like huge gull wings, filling before 
the wind. We skirted the coast for miles, passing the Isle of 
Wight which brought to mind Osborne House and the passing of 
Queen Victoria. Then, through the shipping of Southampton, 
reached our dock and the inevitable custom house. Here an 



inspector asked if I had any perfumery. 1 said "No." "Open 
your hand hag, please." I did it. A look into my face, then 
"that is all" and he marked up the whole lot. What he saw in 
my face that passed my baggage 1 can't imagine, unless it was pure 
unsophistication. 

UP TO LONDON. 

Before leaving the custom house we exchanged our French 
money far its English equivalent — with the comforting thought 
that the next change would be to dollars and cents. Every foot of 
the way to London is of interest. Ike country is level and well 
cultivated. Men were busy in the fields but not with the primitive 
implements of Italy. Horses and wagons take the places of oxen, 
donkey and carts. There were the red tiled cottages that seemed to 
hug the earth, the lanes bordered with hedge rows, the morj pic- 
tentious homes in more conspicuous situations, the picturesque rail- 
road stations, all as we had read of and expected to sec. 

As we entered the city on an elevated road the travelled lady 
of our coterie called out, "Look out for the chimney pots of 
London !" And there they were, two on every chimney— and there 
was a forest of chimneys — on every red roof as far as the eye could 
reach in every direction. 

Coming out into the great Waterloo Station we found the 
carriages and the local conductors waiting. We were booked here 
for the Westminster and when we were being put into Palace Hotel 
conveyances we stepped back'. There had been one change in the 
program and that was sufficient. "Wait until you sec the place," 
the guide suggested, and we consented. The long drive through 
the city made me long for a thousand evyes instead of a thousand 
tongues, and the one tongue I had felt that it would try to do its 
duty by the eyes if I only had them. 

Our driver was a most satisfactory guide and everything of 
note in sight was pointed out. There was St. Paul, a grand smoke- 
stained building dominating the city; then the river with its traflic, 
the Waterloo bridge, Cleopatra's needle, the Strand, and the ever- 
flowing tide of humanity in the busy streets. We drove out to the 
West End, passed Uytlc Park to the entrance to the grounds of 
Kensington Palace, where we dismounted at the hotel adjoining. 
Here we found every comfoit possible in hotel life, and the sound 
of our mother tongue all about us was like hearing from home. 



LONDON. 

The streets of this city arc unlike those we had seen before, 
and yet it is difficult to point out the difference. The absence of 
car lint p, except in some out-lying rcctions, gives an unbroken sur- 
face to its thoroughfares. Motor vehicles of all descriptions and 
for all purposes have almost entirely superseded the old methods of 
transportation. The horses arc fine, almost equal to those of Bel- 
gium, but the day ox' their supremacy is over. No where had we 
seen such a constant stream of life as flows through its business 
centres, and the marvel of it all is the absence of confusion or con- 
gestion. Everything turns to the left and moves like an orderly 
procession. 

The supreme authority in London streets is the policeman. 
Silent but alert, at the first indication of a jam he raises his hand 
and everything in sight from the King's carriage to the humblest 
cart, stops, and not a wheel turns until the signal is given. Oxford 
and Regent streets, as seen from the top of a bus on a bright after- 
noon, eclipse anything to be seen in New York or Paris. 

The money question was less difficult here as we were some- 
what familiar with pounds, shillings and pence. And still the 
broad "a" and the peculiar inflection were often disconcerting. 
For example, one conversation I heard ran like this: "How much 
for this ?" " Tuppence ha' penny, Miss." "I beg pardon." "Tup- 
pence ha' penny." Will you please spell it?" " T-w-o-p-e-n-c-e 
h-a-1-f-p-c-n-n-y." "O thank you." Then a mental calculation — 
"Two pence, that's four cents, half penny, one cent — five cents." 
With lira, franc and mark we lost a fraction every time, but the 
shilling being equivalent to our quarter, placed us on safe ground. 

Because of the frequent stops, long waiting at times, and many 
deviations from established routes, our sight-seeing was done in 
horse drawn vehicles which accommodate about twenty-five persons. 
They are entered from the rear, bus fashion, but arc much higher, 
giving a fine view from the open sides. 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

In order to understind the peculiarities of this the greatest 
Protestant Cathedral, one must keep in mind its history. The 
early data is enshrouded in' myth and tradition; the reputed 
founder died in 616 a. D. and his tomb is still shown. More 



authentic history begins with Edward the Confessor who is con- 
sidered the founder of the Abbey. It was consecrated in 10G5. 
William the Conqueror, Edward's successor, was crowned here, and 
it has been since that time the scene of the coronation of every 
English sovereign, and of the burial of many of them. 

From the time of the Confessor to the Reformation the Abbey 
was a church and monastery, with the usual accessories of college 
hall, Abbot's house, cloisters, refectories and kitchen. On the dis- 
solution of the great monasteries it became a Cathedral church, but 
was turned into an Abbey again by Queen Mary. On the acces- 
sion of Elizabeth to the throno it became a Collegiate church per- 
manently. Here as elsewhere in ancient public buildings with a 
history of unbroken service, are reflected the ideals of many periods; 
here art is seen in all stages of development, from the crude carv- 
ings of the early days to the masterpieces of medieval and modern 
art. We saw the altar, the scene of the crowning of kings and 
queens, the quaint, time-scarred coronation chair with the famous 
Scone stone beneath the seat; we sat "in the seats of the mighty" 
who have witnessed great epoch-making events, gazed at the won- 
derful windows that throw their many-hued lights over all, then 
wandered among the tombs of the dead and gone who helped to 
make the nation great. 

Here Elizabeth and Mary lie in noble sepulture almost side 
by side, in perfect peace with each other. The tombs of ancient 
kings arc worn and black with age, the figures on many of them 
bearing the marks of vandal hands. This section of the Abbey is 
so crowded that passing through is sometimes difficult. In fact 
everywhere artistic arrangement seems to have been sacrificed to 
expediency. A visit of a few hours can give little beyond a general 
idea of this world renowned sanctuary for the living and the dead. 
The Poets' Corner, the tombs of Wesley and other illustrious dead 
in whom we have special interest, would have held us indefinitely 
if time had allowed. 

ST. PAUL. 

Next in interest we count this, the largest Protestant church 
in the world. The first church on this site dates back to 610. 
The old building was two hundred years in construction. One can 
readily imagine the hindrances in all these years through changing 
ecclesiastic administrations as well as these of state, the gathering 



of funds and the tedious processes of the times. And then the 
Grc.it Fire of 1GGG swept it away. Christopher Wren rehuilt it 
and his body lies in the great crypt below. On his tomb we read: 
"If you would read my epitaph look about you." Here also lie 
buried Lord Nelson, Wellington, Turner, Landseer, Sir Arthur 
Sullivan and many others of world-wide fame. The floor of this 
crypt — the largest in the world— was laid by female convicts. 

The arrangement of the sculpture here does not crowd and 
detract from the beauty of the interior as in the Abbey, where 
many a wonderful arch and column with most delicate tracery of 
carving is hidden by a great tomb or monument of doubtful fitness 
in a sacred place. Here space, light and position are so admirably 
chosen that no line of beauty is lost and every work of art is seen at 
its best. The tomb of the Duke of Wellington by Alfred Stevens 
is considered the finest work of its kind in England. 

THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 

Great is Westminster! Great is St. Paul! But greatest of 
all in interest to all classes of people is the Museum. They record 
the history of England; the Museum lays bare the history of the 
world. Prehistoric ruins have given up their hidden treasures, and 
from tablets of stone and baked clay, from ancient obelisk and 
parchment, great archaeologists have read the progress of humanity 
from the Babylonian account of the flood, found at Nineveh, to the 
times within the memory of man 

I should have been greatly disappointed if I had not seen the 
Rosetta Stone. It is a slab of black basalt found in ruins near the 
Rosetta mouth of the Nile. On it is an inscription, first in hiero- 
glyphics—the writing of the priests, — then in the characters used 
by the people, and the last in Greek, which was readily read, and 
which proved to be a translation of the hieroglyphics. Thus a key 
was found to ancient records that proved the authenticity of im- 
portant events in Bible history. 

The Elgin marbles arc of universal interest, comprising as 
they do the bulk of the remaining decorations of the Parthenon. 
These arc recognized as the finest specimens of existing sculpture. 

In the time at our disposal we could only look for the things 
we most desired to see; but we walked and gazed in this wonderful 
place until tired bodies rebelled, and we left it with the hope that 



some time in the future an opportunity might come to us to visit 
the great library and other sections we had been compelled to 
pass by. 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

Leaving the Museum, which Raskin pronounced "the greatest 
concentration of human knowledge in the world," we visited the 
National Gallery. It contains twenty-two rooms with over 1600 
pictures arranged in schools, and is built on a wide terrace over- 
looking Trafalgar Square. From the grand colonnade at the 
entrance are seen Nelson's Monument with the four Landrcer lions 
at its base, a statue of Charles I, Charing Cross, fountains, and St. 
Martin's church where Nell Gwyne is buried. 

The modern British pictures are displayed at Tate Gallery. 
There we saw the original painting, "The Doctor," copies of which 
are so often seen in American schools of medicine. The Wallace 
Collection in Manchester Square is a favorite visiting place of 
Americans. It is one of the latest and best additions to the won- 
derful galleries of London. Here at the entrance, we were obliged 
to check all h:md-bags and parcels because the Suffragette was 
abroad in the land. 

The Royal Exchange, Bank of England and Mansion House 
are all within a stone's throw. The open space between is the 
busiest spot in London, and is honey-combed with subways for 
nervous foot-passengers. 

Old Bailey recalled the imprisonment of Pickwick; Bow 
C'.iurch, that of Whittington and his cat. Everyone born within 
sound of Bow Bells is a "cockney;" but the tribe will soon be ex- 
tinct for the homes are rapidly giving place to business houses. 
Old London bridge brought back a game of childhood — " London 
bridge is falling down." London monument nearby commemorates 
the Great Fire. Tower bridge built to relieve congestion carries 
over, on an average, 30,000 foot passengers and 10,000 vehicles a 
day. 

Albert Memorial is quite near the Palace Hotel, and Albert 
Hall, a large circular building, is in the same section. It seats 
10,000 people and contains the largest organ in the world. 



THE TOWER. 

We visited Smithfield, the scene of martyrdom in the days of 
religious strife, and old St. Bartholomew nearby, the oldest church 
in the city, and the finest specimen of Early Gothic in England. 
The Houses of Parliament, Natural History Museum, the Zoological 
Gardens in Regent Park, City Road Chapel — the Mecca of Metho- 
dism—and the Horse Guards at Whitehall all claimed time and 
were of absorbing interest. But to all English blood, however 
remote the ancestry, nothing appeals as strongly as London Tower. 

The name naturally suggests one massive erection strongly 
fortified; but when we learn that eighteen acres are enclosed within 
its walls, and recall the many purposes it has subseryed — that of 
fortress, royal residence, prison and treasury — and see instead of 
one tower, a forest of towers, we begin to have an adequate concep- 
tion of this great landmark. 

The central keep— the original White Tower — was built by 
William the Conqueror for the control and protection of the city, 
and was used as a palace by all the kings down to Charles LL 
Here was planted the germ of the national life. This building 
and its grounds are defended by a massive wall with thirteen 
towers. The outer wall has six towers on the river side, and three 
strong bastions on the north. The Moat, now dry, encircles the 
whole. Within the enclosure are the homes of the officers in 
charge, barracks, parade grounds, paved walks and squares, and 
the Chapel where lie eight bodies, the victims of the ax— among 
them that of Lady Jane Grey, the place of her execution is marked 
with a tablet on the " Green." 

At the entrance to the Bloody Tower near the Traitor's gate, 
we passed the Beefeaters— the yoemen of the guard— in their quaint 
medieval uniform. We seemed to hear the sighs and moans of past 
ages as we passed through those vaulted gateways, and climbed the 
steep narrow stairs to the tower rooms from which men and women 
of our race looked their last upon life, merely became they stood 
in somebody's way. In a large circular room in Beauchamp Tower 
we saw the many inscriptions cut in the walls by prisoners await- 
ing their doom. 



THE ARMORY AND CROWN JEWELS. 

Here every weapon of offense and defense, from the stone ax 
to the latest invention is displayed. Ali kinds of armor arc seen, 
from the quilted garment to elaborate chain and armor plate of 
Eastern origin. Armored horsemen make up a large part of this 
display. 

In a well-lighted circular room of Wakefield Tower we saw the 
Crown Jewels. They are arranged in a large double case in the 
center of the room. The king's crown is the top piece, arranged 
below are the crowns of several queens -and the coronet of the 
Priuce of Wales. The display includes the articles used in the 
coronation ceremony, and all the glittering objects which form the 
English Regalia. I here are also collars, stars, badges, all the 
insigna of knighthood, and the Victoria Cross. In the centre is a 
model of the Kohinoor in its original setting. The room is care- 
fully guarded, and admission is by ticket. No parcels or hand-bags 
pass the outer gate. 

MADAME TUSSAUD. 

A visit to London is not complete without an inspection of 
this famous display of wax work. It was founded ninety years ago 
by Madame Tussaud, a French woman who modeled the heads of 
many of the victims of ihe French Revolution. 

Here are displayed in wax the eminent and the notorious of 
the past and present, in many cases in the actual clothes worn by 
the persons represented. The Royal Group is worth close study. 
There stands Henry VIII with his wives and members of his court, 
all in the elaborate costumes of the period. Our country is repre- 
sented by a group of our presidents, and not far away is a seated 
presentment of Harry Thaw. 

The Chamber of Horrors is a test of nerve. Among the grue- 
some objects is a victim strapped to the guillotine with the ax 
suspended for the blow; counterfeiters at work, an opium den with 
he devotees in all stages of stupefaction, the felon in his cell, — all 
so realistic that one almost shivers recalling the sight. We turned 
for relief to the more pleasing illustrations of historical events and 
social life. 

While our party was gathering at the entrance for the return* 
to the hotel, a doorkeeper was asked about the route we should 
take. He gave the information and explained many objects about 



us. He said " Almost every day a new specimen is placed. Now 
just to-day a figure representing a city guard was brought in but is 
not yet in position. I'll show it to you.'' And we followed to a 
handsome figure in new uniform standing attention. We were 
profuse in praise of the perfect imitation of life. A little California 
lady stepped closer to inspect the face and pronounced it "the most 
natural coloring in the whole exhibition." Just then the o^igy 
gave a start -the compliment was too much for him -and we all 
jumped (and screamed I'm afraid) as though a bomb had exploded 
in our midst. The guard and his fellow-conspirator laughed as 
heartily as if it had been the first time they had played that trick. 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 
The last night in London was a time of sorrowful good-byes. 
Some of our company were to remain longer, others were to go to 
Scotland. The remainder took an early train next morning to 
catch the Bohemian sailing from Liverpool about noon. The 
country north differs little from that to the south of London, though 
the towns of the manufacturing sections arc larger, more bustling 

and dingy. 

At Liverpool our train carried us along the docks through a 
world of shipping to the very gangplank of our ship. Havingfound 
our staterooms we returned to the deck to sec the city which lies 
along the river like a beautiful panorama. Passing down the Irish 
Sea °we had a convoy of myriads of sea gulls. The air was (illed 
with their fluttering white wings. With the Irish coast on one 
side and that of Wales on the other, they never left us until having 
passed the Fastnet Lighthouse, Ireland's "farthest south," we 
came out into the open Atlantic. 

Our ship was smaller than the Canopic, but as well fitted, and 
wonderfully steady. Every courtesy was shown us, and we were 
made as comfortable as the somewhat crowded condition allowed. 
Many of us were old friends by this time, and being fewer in num- 
ber a home-like feeling prevailed. The never relaxing vigilance of 
officers and crew imparted such a sense of security that neither wind 
nor fog dampened the spirits of the party When driven inside by 
the weather the time passed pleasantly in the library with music, 
readings, conversation and fancy work. Every morning a "Travel 
Talk" was held which was a wonderful means of refreshing the 
memory. 



Every evening had its general assembly. The program wcs 
always interesting and sufficiently varied to suit everybody, from 
the "grave and reverend seigniors" to (he jolly college boys and 
girls. The last evening out a bazaar was held, in which all the 
pretty and curious things picked up on the tour were displayed. 
It was certainly a festive time, and lacked only the Christmas 
greens to be an old time holiday fair — minus the sales, of course. 

Then came preparations for going ashore,. — packing up, filling 
out declaration papers for the custom house, and searching railroad 
schedules for the earliest trains out from Boston. Finally while 
anchored in the harbor we filed before an official for identification, 
verifying the papers we had filled before the outward voyage. 
Uncle Sam keeps a watchful eye on his children when they go 
from homo. 

As we passed down the gang directly into the custom house 
we were greeted with waving hats and handkerchiefs, and to many, 
the smiles of waiting friends. 

And thus ended a pilgrimage, unique in history because of its 
purpose in bringing together the ends of the earth in a great 
religious gathering; because of the unfailing wisdom of its planning 
and execution, wherein every possible emergency was provided for 
beforehand, and because of the abundant opportunities given to sec 
the countries through which we passed. 

So far as I have been able to ascertain, of all the delegations 
that left this country, not one person had died, not one was left 
behind because of disability, nobody had suffered from accident, and 
cases of sickness were very rare; I know of but one serious case and 
he came home with us full of life and energy. 

While none of us love our country less because of what we saw 
abroad, the effect of such a tour is the broadening of views of life 
and humanity, and a fuller realization of the fact that the Creator 
"made of one blood all the nations of men." 



H 73 9.1 



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